<p class="wysiwyg-text-align-center"><b>1994 Penfolds
Grange and 1975 Bin 95 Grange Hermitage</b></p>

<p>BY NEAL MARTIN |&nbsp;MAY 13, 2024</p><p>During
my time in Bordeaux tasting barrel samples, I spend most evenings essentially
harvesting tasting notes for my annual “Centuries Of…” article that will appear
in due course. Ironically, perhaps the best bottle of wine with a vintage
ending in four was not from either the Left or Right Bank but from Australia.</p>

<p><span>Proprietor
of Château Séraphin, Martin Krajewski, opened two bottles of <b>1994 Penfolds
Grange</b> from his cellar. I must admit, I was completely entranced. Perhaps,
having marinated my palate in prenatal claret over the previous week, my senses
exaggerated its virtues, but I don’t think so. This was a blend of 89% Shiraz
and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon with fruit sourced from Barossa (Kalimna Vineyard),
McClaren Vale and Coonawarra. Lucid ruby in hue, it offers red plum, kirsch and
fresh fig, touches of sandalwood and light marmalade scents. So sensual and yet
beautifully delineated. The palate has a viscous texture on the entry,
perfectly balanced. This is a wine that convinces upon the first sip that it
has reached its apex. It’s deep and caressing, with layers of slightly
confit-like red fruit with allspice and subtle tertiary and mocha notes on the
finish. Every drop is savored. I am no expert on Australian wine, but the
Coonawarra component seems to be the most expressive. This is, frankly, one of
the best vintages of Australia’s iconic wine that I have ever tasted. <b>98</b>/Drink
2024-2044.</span></p><p><img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1715369040522-CF_May132024.jpg"></p><p>Last
year, I was also fortunate to taste two mature vintages of Grange at Hawksmoor
restaurant in London. Unfortunately, the 1968 was corked. The <b>1975 Bin 95
Grange Hermitage</b> (as it was then known) is a blend of 90% Shiraz and 10%
Cabernet Sauvignon. It is delightful. There’s plenty of red fruit on the nose
laced with cooked meats, sandalwood, black truffle and iris flower. It becomes more
tertiary in the glass and perhaps gains delineation. The palate is beautifully
balanced with firm but fine tannins, almost like a hybrid of Bordeaux and the
Rhône yet unmistakably Antipodean. It has a graceful finish that seems fully
mature. Well-kept bottles will still give pleasure. <b>94</b>/Drink 2024-2032.<br></p><p></p><div><div></div></div><p></p><div><div><p><i>© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.</i></p></div></div>

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