1921 Yquem

After 25 years, I finally re-tasted one of the legendary vintages of Yquem. I have told this story before, but it is worth retelling. When I started out in my professional career in the wine trade, around 1998 or 1999, Mirabelle in Mayfair was the place to be seen. It was the scene of many a bibulous dinner—never before or since have I dined at a restaurant that conjured such an electric atmosphere. On this occasion, I was with a couple of colleagues. Who else but Madonna, then riding high after the success of her “Ray of Light” album, sat two tables down. I was a bit of a fan. Famous stars were never disturbed at Mirabelle, so I just stole some glances. Like many icons, I remember her looking much more petite than expected. Nevertheless, she radiated star power. Toward the end of the evening, our friendly sommelier gave us a glass of Sauternes that shimmered with a golden hue. He had just decanted a 1921 Yquem for the Queen of Pop. She wouldn’t notice. Patently, a woman of good taste, we raised a glass and then imbibed this transcendental elixir.