1921 Yquem

After
25 years, I finally re-tasted one of the legendary vintages of Yquem. I have
told this story before, but it is worth retelling. When I started out in my
professional career in the wine trade, around 1998 or 1999, Mirabelle in
Mayfair was the place to be seen. It was the scene of many a bibulous dinner—never
before or since have I dined at a restaurant that conjured such an electric
atmosphere. On this occasion, I was with a couple of colleagues. Who else but Madonna,
then riding high after the success of her “Ray of Light” album, sat two tables
down. I was a bit of a fan. Famous stars were never disturbed at Mirabelle, so
I just stole some glances. Like many icons, I remember her looking much more
petite than expected. Nevertheless, she radiated star power. Toward the end of
the evening, our friendly sommelier gave us a glass of Sauternes that shimmered
with a golden hue. He had just decanted a 1921 Yquem for the Queen of Pop. She
wouldn’t notice. Patently, a woman of good taste, we raised a glass and then
imbibed this transcendental elixir.

Nowadays,
the 1921 Yquem is an extremely rare vintage. According to their website,
which I thoroughly recommend perusing as it offers a wealth of information, the
season was a precursor for those seen today with global warming, one marked by
“unrelenting drought conditions.” Thankfully, 38 mm of rain on September 1
incited botrytis development, and the harvest was prolonged, with&nbsp;potential
alcohol levels varying from 14° to 30°. The wine was purportedly extremely rich
from the outset.

Twenty-four
years after Ms. Ciccone’s generosity, even if she was oblivious to it, another
bottle was served at Épure restaurant in Hong Kong at a dinner themed around
Bordeaux from the 1920s. Deep amber in color, the 1921 Yquem has a magnificent
bouquet with marmalade, quince and aniseed. Later, there are glimpses of
juniper and a touch of Aszú, all delivered with breathtaking delineation.
The palate is perfectly balanced and obviously fully mature at over a century
old, yet, it retains remarkable tension that counterbalances the concentration.
Botrytis seems packed into this Sauternes and is only slowly being abraded by
time. Clementine, tangerine and marmalade build toward the viscous finish that
might be a tad drier than before. Otherwise, this is a&nbsp;joy from start to
finish. 98/Drink 2024-2044.© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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