1994 Kanonkop Wine Estate Paul Sauer
BY NEAL MARTIN |
I used to be dismissive of South African wine. Overshadowed by the New (World) Kids on the Block, New Zealand and Argentina, South Africa was plagued by substandard commercial fare and a lack of ambition. Pinotage was the whipping boy for some merciless wine scribes back in the day. Thankfully, a revolution in quality has now made the Cape one of the most dynamic and revelatory regions in the world. Wineries that dominated the industry when apartheid fell and export markets opened up are still around, though they often feel anachronistic juxtaposed against the legion of ambitious, quality-focused young producers inspired by old vines on unique sites and minimal intervention, all delivered with sassy marketing and at affordable prices.
