1991 Domaine Jean-Louis Grippat St-Joseph

BY NEAL MARTIN | AUGUST 05, 2019Every now and then you taste a bottle that resonates even
more the following day. That is certainly the case with this bottle, generously
opened at Noble Rot restaurant for me and sommelier, winemaker and now writer,
Rajat Parr. This was my first encounter with Jean-Louis Grippat, who took a surprising
early retirement in 2000 at age 59, and sold his holdings to Guigal the
following March. Grippat’s cellars were based in Tournan and Mauve. He
practiced a traditional style of vinification somewhat out of step with the fashion
of the time that favored late picking and lavish new oak. Though Grippat owned
vines in Hermitage, he was apparently more devoted to St-Joseph, his vines located
in the original namesake lieu-dit on
the steep hill of Chapon. According
to John Livingston-Learmonth’s essential tome on the Northern Rhône, Grippat owned
5.5 hectares of Syrah and 1.5 hectares of Marsanne. Guigal subsequently
augmented his purchase with another acquisition in St-Joseph and applied
different winemaking techniques, so now the wines are not exactly the same.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1565016149616-st_joseph_grippat_1991.jpg"> 

The 1991 St-Joseph
shows only modest bricking on the rim. The bouquet is exquisite with scents of
melted tar, fennel, cloves and hung game/dried blood, all intertwined with
gorgeous black, slightly plummy fruit. Whilst you cannot deny the bucolic
element of this St-Joseph, it merely enhances these captivating aromatics. The
palate does not disappoint. It is beautifully balanced, gently grippy and like many
1991 Northern Rhônes, intense and voluminous. Boasting copious damson, tobacco,
garrigue and a liberal sprinkling of
white pepper, the 1991 gently fans out on the finish whilst maintaining superb
definition. After 28 years this is probably à
point. It might well be the best St-Joseph that I have ever drunk. 95/Drink 2019-2032.

Content

Engage

Vinous

Social