1988 Domaine Gentaz-Dervieux Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune

BY NEAL MARTIN |

The Rhône is not my specialty, but that does not preclude me from enjoying its wines. Indeed, some of the greatest bottles I have ever drunk have hailed not from Bordeaux or Burgundy, but the Rhône. This Cellar Favorite focuses on a bygone producer shrouded in mystique, a producer whose wines are now some of the most sought after in the world and with prices to match: Domaine Gentaz-Dervieux. I remember drinking a few bottles around 12 or 13 years ago when the late Bill Baker would sling a couple of bottles on the table for dinner with little fanfare and haughtily remark: “Chaps...now for some proper Rhône”. You could pick them up for about £30 to £40 a bottle. Nowadays, those same wines easily fetch four-figure sums, to the extent that I heard of one person that sold his stash of cases and renovated his entire house with the proceeds.

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The Rhône is not my specialty, but that does not preclude me from enjoying its wines. Indeed, some of the greatest bottles I have ever drunk have hailed not from Bordeaux or Burgundy, but the Rhône. This Cellar Favorite focuses on a bygone producer shrouded in mystique, a producer whose wines are now some of the most sought after in the world and with prices to match: Domaine Gentaz-Dervieux.