Philip Togni Library Releases: 2007 – 1997 – 1987

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JANUARY 22, 2018

Philip Togni has crafted memorable, riveting Napa Valley
Cabernets for at least six decades. The Cabernet Sauvignon Togni made at
Chappellet in 1969 remains one of the greatest and most singular wines I have
ever had the pleasure to taste and drink, from any region in the world. Its longevity
is reflected in a level of rarity and price that makes the 1969 the first
modern-day cult wine in this history of Napa Valley.

A native Brit, Togni studied winemaking with Emile Peynaud
in Bordeaux before arriving in Napa Valley in the late 1950s. Togni brought
with him the traditional methods he learned in France and applied them in
making noteworthy wines for a series of employers. In the mid 1970’s, while
working at Cuvaison, Togni and his wife, Birgitta, purchased an estate on
Spring Mountain. Even today, decades later, the property remains quite rugged.
The cellar is Spartan, especially by the standards of present-day Napa Valley. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1516636392821-Vineyard.jpg"> The Philip Togni
Vineyard, Spring Mountain

The Tognis planted their first acres of vineyards in 1981
with plant material taken from a part of the Draper Vineyard (now part of
Spring Mountain Vineyards) that at the time supplied Beaulieu Vineyard with
fruit. A second, later planting took place between 1985 and 1986. Sadly, the 1981
vines, which were planted on AxR#1 rootstock, succumbed to a lethal combination
of phylloxera and Pierce’s Disease that required a complete replanting of the
original parcels between 1994 and 1997. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1516631350652-Cellar+copy.jpg"> 

Togni’s Spartan cellar

The winery remains very much a family affair. Daughter Lisa
Togni makes the wines today, although her parents are quite engaged and always
present. Among other things, the Tognis had the foresight to cellar a few cases
of each vintage for a library that they tap into each year to offer their
long-time customers perfectly stored 10-, 20- and, where possible, 30-year old
wines. I tasted these three Cabernets after the new and upcoming releases on my
most recent visit. As much as I enjoy tasting the young wines, I confess I
always get excited when we move into the older wines, as Togni’s Cabernets have
an extraordinary track record for developing into exquisite wines with time in
bottle. &nbsp;

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1516636418930-Wines.jpg"> 

The 10, 20 and
30-year Library Cabernet Sauvignons

At ten years of age the 2007
Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is just beginning to enter its first plateau of
maturity. Super-ripe black cherry, plum, espresso, spice and new leather take
on elements of exoticism. Racy and forward, the 2007 has enough depth to drink
well for another 10-15 years, but I don't see it being one of the more
long-lived wines to emerge from this Spring Mountain estate. This is a
decidedly rich, unctuous Cabernet by Togni standards. Lisa Togni adds that
harvest started on October 3 and that the crop was bountiful. I have always
adored Togni's 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon
Estate because it captures both the natural intensity of the year and the
vibrancy that makes these wines so compelling. Powerful and explosive, with
huge density, the 1997 hits the palate with waves of dark fruit intermingled
with savory herb, charcoal, tobacco and grilled herb overtones. Even with all
of its intensity, the 1997 has enough textural richness to drink for another
10-15 years, maybe more, as there is still quite a bit of structure and tannin.
Hints of cedar, tobacco, crushed leaves and game add the closing shades of
nuance. Now fully mature, the 1987
Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is an excellent choice for drinking now and over
the next few years. Game, smoke, licorice, tobacco, sage and black olives give
the 1987 much of its distinctive savory profile. The 1987 was made entirely
from the original 1981 planting.

Content

Engage

Vinous

Social