Cellar Favorite:
1990 Hennebelle

BY NEAL
MARTIN | JUNE 16, 2025

My
recent <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/bordeaux-the-crisis-laid-bare-jun-2025">opinion piece</a> on the crisis facing Bordeaux
has reverberated around the region, even making a few winelovers depressed.
Admittedly, the perspective is sobering, although I did make sure to include
glimmers of hope, a way out of the situation. As if on cue, whilst writing that
piece, a friend in Beaune poured a double magnum of 1990 Château Hennebelle blind.
It was a pertinent reminder of the glories of Bordeaux, how a modest
quarter-century-old Haut-Médoc could deliver such pleasure. This 11-hectare
estate was founded in 1918 and is presently owned by the Bonastre family. The
vineyard is planted with 50% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder split
between Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1750082634620-CF_June162025.jpg">Showing minor bricking on
the rim, the 1990 translates the warmth of that summer with lush cranberry and
raspberry fruit, accented by light incense and violet aromas. Later, a hint of
antique furniture emerges. The bouquet is not overly complex, yet it is so
harmonious and focused. The palate has plenty of fruit, and the larger format
has clearly slowed its evolution. It continues to dish out irresistible notes
of red berry laced with tobacco and clove. The tannins are so fluid and caress
the mouth, not unlike a Pinot Noir. It is just glorious! Let me ask: Which
other wine region can do this, and how much would you pay for an equivalent
Burgundy from the same vintage? 91/Drink 2025-2038.&nbsp; © 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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