Cellar Favorite:
2022 António&nbsp;Madeira&nbsp;Branco Vinhas Velhas

BY NEAL
MARTIN | MAY 12, 2025

I vividly
recall a bottle of António&nbsp;Madeira’s 2017 Branco Vinhas Velhas I encountered five
or six years ago. It was a revelation in terms of what white Portuguese wine
can achieve. On a recent return to <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-solar-dos-presuntos-lisbon-portugal-apr-2023">Solar dos Presuntos</a>, Lisbon’s go-to restaurant for
any wine-lover, I ordered&nbsp;Madeira’s 2022 Branco Vinhas Velhas. Our sommelier
grinned, knowing the treat in store. Once again, &nbsp;I was blown away.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1747054416662-CF_May122025.jpg">This flagship white comes
from parcels of vines in the Dão region that exceed 80 years of age, a blend
that includes Siria, Fernão Pires, Bical, Encruzado and Cerceal. Around 15% is aged
in French oak, with the rest done in stainless steel. The 2022 presents silvery
glints in the glass as the bouquet explodes with intense mineral-driven
Japanese yuzu, limoncello and quince aromas, all neatly wrapped up in a nuanced
veil of reduction. It has scintillating delineation and evokes images of
freshly shucked oyster shells and sea cave. The palate is just as arresting,
brimming with energy and tension. Again, there is a subtle reduction at play, one
that would make Jean-François Coche proud. There is so much depth of flavour
here. That marine theme continues, with notes of tangerine and yuzu on the
finish. The only negative? I spent the rest of my time in Lisbon desperately
searching for another bottle to buy to no avail! This is as good as any white
Burgundy Premier Cru you want to put in front of me, and likewise, whilst it
dishes out pleasure, it will evolve over the next 12 to 15 years. 95/Drink
2025-2040. © 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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