1973 Californian
Cabernets

BY NEAL MARTIN |&nbsp;OCTOBER 28, 2024A
recent discussion about 1970s California wine on the <a target="_blank" href="https://forum.vinous.com/discussion/comment/205736">Vinous forum</a>
prompted me to cleave away a couple of tasting notes from my round-up of mature
wines. Of course, in the early 1970s, Bordeaux was in the doldrums, afflicted
by excessive yields, outdated practices, lack of investment and poor growing
seasons. Meanwhile, California had the bit between its teeth and laid the
foundations for what led to Steven Spurrier’s epochal “Judgement of Paris” in
1976. At their best, this quartet of 1973s from California proves not only the
quality at that time but also their potential longevity, which is on par with
the greatest Bordeaux. I enjoyed these at Moon Bay restaurant in Hong Kong last
September with a group of wine lovers.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1729866078684-Montelena+1973+%281%29.jpg">The 1973
North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon was a limited production from Silver Oak
that was discontinued in the late Seventies. This is spectacular! Vibrant
blackberry and raspberry fruit on the nose. Peppermint and licorice hints come
through with time. Very complex and involving, these aromatics almost
"hug" the olfactory senses. The palate has exquisite balance&nbsp;and
is powerful yet refined, with licorice-tinged black fruit, allspice, nutmeg and
candied orange peel. Blessed with stunning delineation on the finish, this
Cabernet has an effortless quality that means it ranks among the best
Californian wines from this golden period. 97/Drink 2024-2044. The 1973
Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon from Château Montelena just misses a bit
of refinement on the nose, predominantly quite glossy red fruit intermixed with
balsamic and boot polish. I suspect another bottle out there is more precise.
The palate offers Morello cherries and crushed strawberry, iodine and Provençal
herbs. It’s pretty Rhône-like, with a sweet, punchy finish. A bit
"untamed" compared to the superior Silver Oak 1973, it still has much
to offer. 91/Drink 2024-2030. 

Two
more bottles formed the quartet, though they&nbsp;did not achieve the same
level as either the Silver Oak or Montelena. The 1973 Napa Cabernet
Sauvignon from Beringer has a strong peppermint nose, well-defined
with incense and crushed violets. The palate is very sweet and candied on the
entry, framed by fine tannins. With time, it becomes "solid" in
character. But it doesn't quite flow like the best Californian Cabernets from
this vintage and feels simplistic on the finish. 88/Drink 2024-2028.
Finally, the 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon from Heitz Cellars. The
bottle at Moon Bay had a touch of TCA, which is&nbsp;frustrating because you
glimpse a great wine beneath. I enjoyed a representative example from a
memorable tasting in London some years ago. This had a notable deep color.
Earthy, loamy scents on the nose with some volatility commingle with wild mint.
The palate is more impressive, fresh and harmonious, not nearly as flamboyant
as the legendary 1974, with an almost Saint-Julien-styled finish. 90?/Drink
2024-2030.© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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