1931 d’Yquem

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 30, 2020Perusing Michael Broadbent’s indispensable&nbsp;Vintage Wine tome, I marvel how he
tasted multiple Bordeaux wines from practically every growing season since the
early 19th century. Inspired by the late author, a couple of years ago
I set myself the task of tasting a Bordeaux wine from every vintage in the 20th
century. I’m not far off; just five short, and they are predictably poor prewar
vintages that are hardly ever seen, namely 1901, 1903, 1910, 1915 and 1932. One
that I thought I would never taste is 1931. There might have been a legendary
Port at Quinta do Noval that year, but Bordeaux suffered a run of miserable
growing seasons between 1930 and 1933. Quoting Yquem’s official and, I must say,
extremely informative website apropos of 1931: “A year with fairly regular
weather until late June, but that went off the rails from July to September,
with heavy rains and glacially cold temperatures, vine diseases, and even hail
on the 6th of August. The rain stopped on the 18th of September, but only a
barrel’s worth of wine managed to reach 20° potential alcohol. Not a success,
despite 39 days of intense work.” Not exactly positive, is it?

Add to that the backdrop of the Great Depression and the consequent
evisceration of wine markets, and the 1931 d’Yquem was born at the wrong time.
Even Broadbent suggested that it is a one-star wine “at best,” though that was
still better than the previous year, when no Yquem was declared at all. Given
all of that, you would think that any bottles should have been poured down the
sink before the war.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1585576533116-yquem_1931.jpg"> 

Well, no. Defying all the odds, this Sauternes provided much
pleasure to a group of wine lovers, a fitting finale to a memorable Burgundy
dinner. Not a success? I beg to differ. The 1931 d’Yquem, picked between September 22 and November 5, is
burnished deep amber in color. Initially there is quite a pungent adhesive
scent on the nose, chaperoned by a whiff of swimming pool, a trait often found
on old Sauternes and particularly off-vintages. With continued aeration the
1931 reveals faint aromas of satsuma and stewed apricot, plus hints of white
mushroom in the background. The palate is surprisingly lovely – well balanced
with a fine bead of acidity. This is by no means a complex d’Yquem, and it is
clearly short in persistence, yet it still offers enjoyment. There is no sign
of gray rot, while the wine has retained satisfying freshness. While not the
greatest d’Yquem by a long shot, the 1931 far exceeds expectations and deserves
a salute. 90/Drink 2020-2028.

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