1960, 1974 and
New Releases of Château Musar

BY NEAL MARTIN |&nbsp;APRIL 03, 2023Château
Musar is a remarkable estate that gained prominence thanks to the late Serge
Hochar, a remarkable man who died tragically in 2015 after a swimming accident
in Mexico. I grew up watching the news of war-torn Beirut. Little did I know
then that down in the Bekaa Valley, Hochar was making wine from Cabernet
Sauvignon, Carignan and Cinsault bush vines, as well as a white from indigenous
Obaideh and Merwah varieties. The reds were inspired by Léoville Barton after
Ronald Barton was stationed in Lebanon and met Serge Hochar’s father Gaston,
who founded the estate in 1930. The wines gained popularity overseas, in no
small part thanks to Michael Broadbent, a great friend of Serge Hochar
(Broadbent Wines continue as their US distributor to this day.) I was fortunate
to meet Hochar two or three times in London. He was an irrepressibly joyful man
with limitless energy. Château Musar regularly appeared at dinners, more often
than not, old bottles from the Fifties, Sixties and Seventies. Sometimes they
could be a revelation, and occasionally, an acquired taste. Two older vintages
were shown at recent tasting hosted by UK importer, J E Fells &amp; Co, and
afterwards, I nipped over to another stand where the latest releases were being
poured.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1680288392589-musar+1960+and+1974.jpg">The 1974
Château Musar has a pale brick hue with a tuile rim. The nose is
fully mature. Don’t come here looking for plenty of fruit; this is more about dusty
earthenware, pressed flowers and a touch of oxtail. You have to stay with it because
the aromatics become more and more enticing. The palate is well balanced with
more weight than the nose suggests. Cohesive, peppery and savory in style, this
has a modest weight with an animally finish that is not a million miles away
from a Tawny Port. The 1974 is a delightful Musar that would outflank most
Bordeaux clarets in this vintage. Very fine. 90/Drink 2023-2030. 

The 1960
Château Musar is not as clear in color as the 1974 tasted alongside, but in
many ways, I am more drawn to the nose that is like a mature, rustic Burgundy. The
1960 does fade a bit in the glass, so I would not decant it. The palate is
fully mature and quite saccharine, with molasses, toffee and a red fruit
remnant. It’s a little rondeur towards the finish. It almost works as a
sweet wine! Certainly worth seeking out. 91/Drink 2023-2030.

The 2018
Château Musar Rosé has a light, slightly conservative nose, with strawberry
and mandarin touches. It needs more vigor to come through. The palate is well
balanced, offering orange rind and roasted walnuts, smoky in style, with decent
weight on the off-dry finish. It’s the kind of Rosé I’d drink chilled with
salted nuts. 86/Drink 2023-2026.

The 2017
Château Musar has a perfumed bouquet with well-defined plummy red fruit,
fireside embers and pressed flower scents. A hint of VA in the background gives
the aromatics a welcome kick. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and
well-judged acidity, harmonious, not powerful, yet full of flavor. A pleasing
bitterness surfaces towards the finish, with moderate persistence and a residual
white pepper tang lingering in the mouth. Very nice. 90/Drink 2023-2040.

Finally,
the 2016 Château Musar White has a light bouquet with wild peach and
apricot blossom scents and a touch of acacia honey in the background. The
palate is a little oxidative on the entry, with toffee, apple, peach, banana
and marzipan notes. It’s a bit of an acquired taste, though the palate soon
becomes accustomed to the flavors. 86/Drink 2023-2030.© 2023, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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