Lune d’Or
2012-2020

BY NEAL MARTIN&nbsp;| AUGUST 08, 2022This
Cellar Favourite takes a look at the Bordeaux dry white, Lune d’Or, an
increasingly important part of Olivier Bernard’s portfolio. Prior to tasting the
Domaine de Chevalier proprietor’s latest releases at en primeur, he opened
every vintage since the debut to demonstrate the quality of dry whites from
Sauternes and its ageing potential. The project stems from the family’s
acquisition of the Haut Caplane estate in 2011 that had been treading water for
a number of years. Renamed Clos des Lunes, Bernard has gradually expanded the
vineyard to 75 hectares planted with 70% Sémillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc with
numerous parcels of old vines. The harvest is manual and conducted plot-by-plot
à la Sauternes, with pickers entering the vineyard in the morning to take
advantage of the cooler temperatures. Winemaking broadly follows that of
Domaine de Chevalier with slow pressing, débourbage by gravity and
ageing on the fine lees during which there is regular lees-stirring. Three
cuvées are produced, an entry-level Lune Blanche and Lune d’Argent; Lune d’Or,
the top cuvée, is limited to around 20 barrels each year after barrel
selection.

This
tasting largely gives credence to the idea that these dry whites deserve
cellaring like your favourite vintage of Domaine de Chevalier Blanc. Perhaps
just the debut 2012 needs a pep up, but otherwise this was an impressive
showing. There is still pleasure to be gained from drinking them within their
first decade, but Sémillon has a propensity to age like few other white grape
varieties, and it will be intriguing to revisit these at 15 to 20 years of age.
The 2014 and 2017 are my picks during the first decade that has been occasionally
blighted by frost, but I am more excited about what the second decade has in
store.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1659967473596-lune+d%27or+line+up_copy.jpg">The 2012
Lune d'Or has an intriguing bouquet, not unlike a Loire with some maturity.
Touches of wet wool permeating the citrus fruit and hints of beeswax come
through with time. The palate is well balanced with white chocolate and walnut
on the entry, a little yeasty in style, but with adequate freshness on the
finish. 87/Drink 2022-2028. The 2013 Lune d'Or is now fresher and
more vibrant than the maiden 2012 with citrus peel, white flowers and petrichor
scents. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, a little spicier than
the previous vintage with admirable persistence on the finish. Drinking
perfectly now although it will canter along nicely for another decade. 90/Drink
2022-2030. The 2014 Lune d'Or has a fragrant bouquet with menthol-tinged
citrus fruit, quite vibrant and effervescent with touches of blood orange
emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied and well-balanced, with a
tangy, spicy opening, good weight with well-integrated oak towards the finish.
More weight than the 2013, this is showing beautifully. 92/Drink 2022-2032.
The 2015 Lune d'Or does not quite deliver the amplitude of the 2014; it
is stricter and without quite the same…verve. The palate is well-balanced with
good weight, though it does not have the tension or the livewire personality of
the previous vintage, slightly waxy towards the finish. Drink this now, before
the 2014 or 2013 if you have them all. 89/Drink 2022-2027. 

The 2016
Lune d'Or offers cooking apple, citrus peel and touches of granite on the
nose, though it is quite strict at the moment. The palate possesses good
weight, very saline, fine density with an almost flinty finish. Quite backward
for a six-year-old white; I would afford this a couple more years in bottle. I
wonder if this has something up its sleeve? 91/Drink 2024-2030.
The 2017 Lune d'Or has great intensity on the nose: white peach, orange
rind, a slight oily/lanolin scent that emerges with time. The palate is well-balanced
with fine acidity, quite saline, good depth with a vibrant, almost Chablis-like
finish. This seems to be meliorating with bottle age and really appears to
express the Sémillon better than any previous vintage. 92/Drink 2022-2035.
The 2018 Lune d'Or has a difficult time following the 2017, less complex
and a little withdrawn by comparison. It does unfold in the glass, revealing
almond and praline scents. The palate is well-balanced with fine acidity, fresh
on the entry but not quite summoning requisite tension on the finish due to the
warmth of this particular growing season. 88/Drink 2022-2027. The 2020
Lune d'Or is a wine that somehow did not wow me when tasted from barrel.
Now in bottle…well, I am not inclined to change my view by much. The aromatics
just feel too contained, especially juxtaposed with other vintages. The palate
is well balanced with a tang of spice on the entry and good weight in the
mouth, yet I am still looking for more personality, a bit of pizzazz on the
finish. Maybe I was hard with my assessment from barrel, yet I still think it
needs to look towards the 2014 and 2017 to see what is possible. 89/Drink
2023-2032.© 2022, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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