Piemonte: 2009 and 2010 Barbaresco Plus Other New Releases

by Antonio Galloni

It is always a bit of a challenge to keep current with the bevy of fabulous wines that emerge from Piemonte’s top estates. Readers will find a huge assortment of wines in the market. This article covers the 2009 and 2010 vintages in Barbaresco, late-release 2008 Barolo, new releases from Roero and Piemonte’s northern appellations, and a wide range of every-day drinkers that won’t break the bank. The vast majority of these wines were tasted in Italy in August 2012, with follow up tastings in my New York office in September 2012. No matter how many times I have been to Piemonte, I never tire of the spectacular views, fabulous cuisine and wide array of superb wines that capture the essence of one of the most genuine, down to earth, artisan wine cultures on the planet.

2009 and 2010 Barbaresco

Readers will find two very different vintages in the 2009 and 2010 Barbareschi. The 2009s are the result of a year with very hot summer temperatures, while the 2010s emerge from an exceptionally long, cool growing season. In other words, the vintages are nearly polar opposites. At the time of my tastings, virtually all of the 2009s had been bottled, while the 2010s had been bottled for anywhere from a few weeks to a few months. I will revisit the 2010s later this year, so notes on those wines should be taken for what they are – previews of a big vintage that is likely to develop considerably over time.

The 2009 growing season was characterized by a snowy winter and wet spring with unseasonably cool weather. Temperatures heated up in June. A protracted heat wave set in during the middle of August. I remember that time well, as I was on vacation with my family in Tuscany. The middle of August is usually a time when daytime temperatures begin to lower, but, more importantly, a period when evening temperatures drop. None of that happened in August 2009. Readers might remember from previous articles that diurnal shifts are an absolutely critical element in achieving full phenolic ripeness and good color in Nebbiolo. In 2009, the heat was stifling to the point some plants shut down, leaving the stems and grapes with tannins that never fully ripened The overall maturation cycle in 2009 was also a bit shorter than optimal.