Barolo 2008: The Incredible Lightness of Being

by Antonio Galloni

The 2008 Baroli have turned out better than I originally expected. They are for the most part gracious, medium-bodied wines that are highly expressive to site and full of character. Quality is inconsistent across the region, so consumers will have to choose with care, but the best 2008s are thrilling.

The winter was quite wet, a trend that continued into the spring. Heavy rains caused erosion and landslides in several important vineyards. The larger problem across the board was the onset of peronospera and mildew. These diseases required considerable attention from growers. It was a year where timing was everything. On average, vineyards were treated three times the normal amount. Hail was an issue in some spots. A number of producers did not bottle their top selections, including Azelia and Elvio Cogno. The summer was warm, but not excessively so. The 2008s were made during the last month of the growing season, echoing a refrain that is common among produces. A glorious fall allowed for a late harvest that started around the middle of October and lasted through the end of the month, very late by modern-day standards.