Alto Piemonte, Valtellina & Points North

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 31, 2022

It is easy to get discouraged these days, as so many reference point wines continue to soar out of reach of the average consumer. But, there are still regions where the savvy wine lover can find truly distinctive wines; wines of place that are both compelling and reasonably priced. Inquisitive readers will find much to explore in the wines of Alto Piemonte, Valtellina and other nearby appellations. 

One of the most intriguing aspects of these regions is the practice of releasing wines with a few years of bottle age. Part of that is tradition and part is a reflection of the wines not being easy to sell. Regardless, that is a huge positive for both consumers looking for bottles with a measure of complexity and sommeliers interested in adding wines that are ready to drink to their lists. Amazingly, prices have not caught up with the quality at most of the best estates.

As a general rule, the Nebbiolos and Nebbiolo-based blends of these northerly appellations are generally lighter in body, lower in alcohol and brighter than the wines of Barolo or Barbaresco. These wines are built on tension, translucent vibrancy and persistence more than volume. Think Volnay more than Pommard. I have written about all of these appellations in the past, so I won’t repeat the basics. Readers who want to revisit those topics will find plenty of information in our Article Archive.

The new winery at Nervi-Conterno in Gattinara is designed as an open working space where visitors can watch as the wines are made.

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