Chianti Classico and Beyond – New Releases

Sangiovese reigns supreme in Chianti Classico. This year’s crop of new releases focuses on the 2012s and 2011s, wines from harvests that produced radiant, expressive reds with plenty of near and medium term appeal.

Some Thoughts on 2012

Growers describe 2012 as a year with uneven ripeness, the result of a season with start-and-stop conditions. As early as the spring, Chianti Classico was experiencing an unusually warm and dry year, with virtually no rain. When I visited the region in April, producers were very concerned about the drought-like conditions. A few weeks later, rain arrived and pushed back the start of summer with cooler than normal temperatures that lasted well into June. Warm weather returned with a vengeance in August, especially during the first half of the month, which was quite hot. Rain at the end of the growing season, right around harvest, complicated the final phase of ripening at some estates. Yields are down across the board. Some growers believe that the vines set low crops in response to climatic conditions, while others reported everything from hydric stress to fruit drying out on the vine because of the intense heat in August.

Based on what I have tasted so far, 2012 appears to be a vintage of mid-weight wines, most of which are built for the near and medium term. The wines have lovely radiance, but not quite the opulence of the 2011s nor the classic sense of pulsating vibrancy found in the 2010s. I expect we will see most of the top labels in 2012, although production will be down, as this is a vintage that is going to require a bit more selection in the cellar.

Isole e Olena, Barberino Val d’Elsa

The 2011 Chianti Classico Riservas

By now, readers have had a chance to taste the straight Chianti Classicos. The warm, precocious vintage produced a set of ripe – at times exotic – wines, with tons of resonance and volume. Although the 2011s drink well young, a few years in bottle will help the wines integrate as the baby fat melts away. Sangiovese by nature has a good amount of acidity that helps the wines retain a sense of freshness, something this vintage needed. The best 2011s will drink well young and also age gracefully.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione