Piedmont’s Glorious 1989 and 1990 Vintages Revisited

by Antonio Galloni

The 1989 and 1990 Barolos and Barbarescos are among the most monumental wines ever made in any region. I have always had an affinity for these wines, as they were among the first important bottles I purchased for my own cellar.

Originally I envisioned a small report covering the best-known wines, but the article grew larger and larger as my tastings increased in frequency and depth. Along the way I was helped by a number of people who deserve special thanks. First and foremost to Robert Parker who suggested this article and opened a good number of bottles from his own cellar; to my dear friend Rino Fontana, the world’s foremost expert on the great, traditionally-made wines of Piedmont, for supplying a range of wines; to my New York City and Italy-based tasting groups for giving me the opportunity to taste, re-taste and taste again; and lastly to my wife Marzia and my son Giulio for their unending support.

The 1989 vintage is universally recognized as one of the great all-time harvests in Piedmont. The wines are rich, structured, complex and just starting to come around. The year started with a wet, cool spring that led to an irregular flowering and crop set. Green harvesting was not widely practiced in Piedmont in the late 1980s, but in 1989 Mother Nature took care of things by reducing yields. The summer was warm, which allowed for optimal ripening. Evening temperatures dropped towards the end of the growing season, creating the wide temperature fluctuations between day and night in which Nebbiolo thrives, setting the stage for a late harvest. The wines are characterized by intense color, powerful structure, relatively high acidity, expressive aromatics, beautifully pure fruit and fine, chiseled personalities. Piedmont fans define 1989 as a ‘classic’ vintage, along with other late-harvest years that produced powerful wines, including 1978, 1982, 1996, 1999 and 2001.