Paolo Scavino: Barolo Cannubi 1989-2001

Owing to its small production, Scavino’s Cannubi is perhaps
the least well known of his single-vineyard Barolos.&nbsp;&nbsp; It is made in a very ripe style with notable
concentration and suppleness, but without losing the feminine, perfumed quality
that makes wines from this vineyard so distinctive and irresistible.&nbsp; Although Cannubi is the most approachable of
Scavino’s Barolos it is also a wine that has also proven to be quite capable of
aging.

From 1993 to 1998 the wines were aged exclusively in
barrique in an effort to make the wines ready to drink earlier, which seems to
have worked.&nbsp;&nbsp; For example, the 1996,
from a structured and age-worthy vintage, is a decidedly modern-styled wine.
Relatively soft and approachable right out of the bottle, it also shows the clear
presence of new oak.&nbsp; By comparison
vintages 1989 and 1990, while displaying more evolved flavors, also show
notable tannic clout, and are more classic wines that require additional time
in the glass to fully express themselves.

Beginning in 1999 the wines are aged one year in barrique
followed by one year in cask prior to being bottled, an approach I think works
especially well here.&nbsp; Scavino’s Cannubi
appears to be most successful in more classic vintages that really tend to
bring out the delicate, perfumed, and aromatic quality of the vineyard.&nbsp; Lastly, this producer’s wines in particular
really seem to benefit from extended aeration and several hours of decanting
will do these wines a world of good.

1989 Paolo Scavino
Barolo Cannubi – Medium burnished ruby.&nbsp;&nbsp;
The 1989 is a sensational effort that perfectly captures Cannubi and the
superb 1989 vintage.&nbsp; It shows a very
layered profile in its balsamic nose of spices, menthol and flowers, with great
density and concentration in its rich black cherry fruit that explodes onto the
palate with great persistence and freshness.&nbsp;
The 1989 is at the same time more delicate and structured than the
1990.&nbsp; While delicious now, this wine has
at least another ten years ahead of it, and perhaps more.&nbsp; 95 points/drink after 2006, tasted 05/05

1990 Paolo Scavino
Barolo Cannubi – Medium burnished ruby.&nbsp;
The 1990 is a racy, irresistible Barolo that offers a rich, alcoholic
nose of spices, minerals, mint, and eucalyptus.&nbsp;
It is dense and packed on the palate with much intense, ripe fruit in
round and immediate style, finishing with great length.&nbsp; Readers lucky enough to own this wine should
feel in no hurry to finish their bottles, this 1990 shows plenty of structure
and was still outstanding on the 2nd day after opening.&nbsp; 95 points/drink now-, tasted 06/05

1996 Paolo Scavino
Barolo Cannubi – Dark ruby.&nbsp; The
outrageous and utterly beautiful 1996 offers an alluring balsamic nose followed
by generous amounts of rich dark cherry fruit intermingled with more evolved
notes of tar, chocolate and menthol that emerge as the wine sits in the
glass.&nbsp; It is massive and packed on the
palate, showing layers of flavors and much personality.&nbsp; At the early part of what promises to be a
long drinking window.&nbsp; 95 points/drink
after 2006, tasted 06/05

1997 Paolo Scavino
Barolo Cannubi – Dark ruby.&nbsp; By
comparison the 1997 comes across as relatively straightforward.&nbsp; It is a richly concentrated, lush Barolo
showing intense aromas and flavors of over-ripe jammy, and stewed fruit, with a
persistent roasted character and a note of burnt sugar. While it lacks the
complexity and length of the very best vintages, the 1997 is drinking well now
and should last at least another ten years.&nbsp;
91 points/drink now, tasted 05/05

1998 Paolo Scavino
Barolo Cannubi – Dark ruby.&nbsp; The 1998
displays the classic perfumed Cannubi nose and plenty of sweet ripe fruit, and
rose petal flavors in a supremely elegant, accessible style, but with more
freshness and better balance than the 1997.&nbsp;
This wine shows just how outstanding the 1998s can be and is a great choice
for near-term drinking.&nbsp; 93 points/drink
now-, tasted 05/05

1999 Paolo Scavino
Barolo Cannubi – Dark ruby.&nbsp; The 1999
is a fascinating effort that perfectly captures the vintage in its complex
aromas of roses, menthol, ripe fruit and truffles.&nbsp; It is dense and long, offering a soft,
velvety profile with much dark fruit on a dense, structured frame.&nbsp; Notes of roasted coffee beans, licorice, tar,
and menthol appear as this gorgeous, superbly well-balanced wine sits in the
glass.&nbsp;&nbsp; Not as accessible today as the
1997, 1998, or 2000, this will require a few years to be at its best, and will
age gracefully to at least age 20.&nbsp; 93+
points/drink now-, tasted 05/05

2000 Paolo Scavino
Barolo Cannubi – Dark ruby.&nbsp; Like
many wines of the vintage, the 2000 is not terribly expressive on the
nose.&nbsp; What it lacks in aromatics it
makes up for with generous, concentrated flavors of ripe dark cherries and
menthol, with much finesse and elegance, though also showing the heat of the
vintage.&nbsp; This is drinking beautifully
today and should continue to do so for at least another 10 years.&nbsp; 92 points/drink now-, tasted 05/05

2001 Paolo Scavino
Barolo Cannubi – Dark ruby.&nbsp; A
classic in the making, the superb 2001 offers a multi-dimensional, delicate
nose of flowers, menthol, and minerals with plenty of ripe dark cherry fruit,
great length, and a nuanced, ethereal finish.&nbsp;
It will require at least a few years of bottle age, and will still be
vibrant and full of flavor at age 20.&nbsp; A
great effort.&nbsp; 94+ points/drink after
2009, tasted 05/05

-- Antonio Galloni&nbsp;&nbsp;

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