Produttori
del Barbaresco: 1978-1996

WINES:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;


<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 1996&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 93 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1996&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 93 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1996&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva
 Pajè&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 </td>
 <td>
 92 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1996&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 94 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 95 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 91 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 94 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano (magnum) &nbsp; 
 </td>
 <td>
 91 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1988&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 92 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1988&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del Barbaresco
 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 93 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1988&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 90 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1988&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 ? 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1988&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Trentennio
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 90 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 91 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 92 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1985&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 91 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1978&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 92 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1978&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montefico
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 94 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1978&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 ? 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1978&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 95 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1978&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Produttori del
 Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
 </td>
 <td>
 ? 
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>

FOOD: 

Course 1 – Creamy polenta, crispy chicken livers,
sage 

Course 2 – Rags of pasta, wild mushroom ragu, fresh
black truffles 

Course 3 – Amatriciana filled pasta, black pepper,
pecorino crema 

Course 4 – Roasted squab, broccoli rabe, fennel,
black olives 

Course 5 – Selection of artisanal Italian cheeses 

Course 6 – Coffee and cookies 

Produttori del Barbaresco
is one of the few estates in the world that continues to produce fine, age
worthy wines at consumer-friendly prices. Although the Produttori’s Barbarescos
- the Riservas in particular - age extremely well, until recently the wines haven’t
been considered collectible. Because of their reasonable prices, most of the
wines have long been drunk up by the estate’s loyal supporters, making older
vintages nearly impossible to source, even in the secondary market. This
tasting provided an extraordinary opportunity to get a progress report on 21of
the estate’s single-vineyard Barbarescos. The wines spanned 5 important
harvests; 1996, 1989, 1988, 1985 and 1978, all years Piedmont loves recognize
as being among the finest to grace the region. As an aside, I recently
re-tasted a number of the Produttori’s 2004 Riservas and promptly augmented my
stock of these sublime Barbarescos. I highly encourage readers to snap up the
wines while they are around. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1373252494102-Barbaresco+photo1+-+Vinous.jpg"> 

Managing Director Aldo
Vacca was on hand to provide commentary on the wines, and his soft-spoken yet
passionate delivery - intermingled with a healthy sense of humor - in many ways
embodied all of the qualities of that make the wines themselves special. Convivio’s
Executive Chef Michael White presented a knock-out menu to match the wines. The
pastas in particular were exceptional, but all of the dishes were to die for,
not to mention that they were exquisite with the wines. This was my second
great dinner at Convivio within the last few months. Given the quality of the
food, I was not surprised to see the dining room completely packed despite the
challenging economic environment. The tasting was organized by the Rare Wine
Company, which deserves to be recognized for its dedication to delivering value
to the consumer. At $295 per person, this dinner offered an unforgettable food
and wine experience at a very reasonable price. One of our wines was clearly
corked, but Rare Wine had a backup ready to go. Readers who attend tastings on
a regular basis will recognize how unusual this level of professionalism and
attention to detail has become. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1373252509179-Barbaresco+photo2+-+Vinous.jpg"> 

All of the 1996 Riservas
showed beautifully. It was hard to pick a favorite among this first set of
wines. For the most part 1996 Barbarescos remain young, and still offer
considerable upside potential. The 1996 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà was
the most complete of these 1996s, though, and it totally won me over with its
explosive kaleidoscope of aromas and flavors. A young, vibrant wine, it
promises to drink splendidly for at least another 20 years, if not more. The 1996
Barbaresco Riserva Ovello offered up an array of violets, spices and dark
fruit. Still quite young, the Ovello is another wine that needs further time in
bottle, but its qualities were easy to appreciate, even at this adolescent
stage. Perhaps the most immediate and enjoyable wine of the flight was the 1996
Barbaresco Riserva Pora. The Pora vineyard is one of the warmer sites of
Barbaresco given its proximity to the Tanaro River, and in the cool 1996
vintage the wine benefited from an extra touch of heat which is felt in the
wine’s plumpness. This was a deep, earthy Barbaresco imbued with notable power
married with considerable roundness and sweetness. The wine’s balance and sense
of harmony was superb. The 1996 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè combined
elements of the classic austerity of the Rabajà and Ovello, but in a more
linear and ethereal style. Sweet spices and menthol lingered on the finish in
this beautiful Barbaresco. 

&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1373252524218-Barbaresco+photo3+-+Vinous.jpg">

Our flight of 1989s was
equally inspiring. If well-stored, the wines can still improve over the coming
years. With one exception they were all gorgeous on this night.&nbsp; The 1989
Barbaresco Riserva Ovello was extraordinary. This big, rich, full-bodied
wine had filled out beautifully in a surprisingly round style for this site and
vintage. It was striking in every way. The 1989 Barbaresco Riserva Pora
was relatively advanced by comparison, with tertiary notes of beef, earthiness
and barnyard dominating its profile. The wine compensated for its slightly
rustic qualities with a soft, generous feel and was far more enjoyable when
tasted alongside food. The 1989 Barbaresco Riserva Asili was simply
beautiful. This was another kaleidoscopic, multi-dimensional wine that floated
on the palate in a textbook expression of sweet perfumed fruit, roses and
spices. Simply put, this was classic Asili at its very finest. The 1989
Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano, tasted from magnum, was packed with the
essence of tar, beef bouillon, mushrooms, menthol and spices. The wine never
came together in the glass, though, and was a bit disjointed. 

I am not a huge fan of the
1988 vintage in Piedmont as many wines have aged relatively prematurely, but
that is not the case here. To be sure, 1988 is a relatively small-scaled
vintage, but these Barbarescos were all very fine. The wines seem to have
exhausted their potential for development, but they aren’t tired at all and
should continue to hold for a number of years. 

The 1988 Barbaresco
Riserva Rio Sordo showed the tell-tale qualities of this site in its sweet
spices, flowers and menthol. This delicate, medium-bodied Barbaresco has aged
exceptionally well, and on this night it was sublime. The 1988 Barbaresco
Riserva Pajè, on the other hand, was far more extroverted, as layers of
plums, violets and spices emerged in striking style. Still deeply-colored, the
wine revealed tons of length and a pure, resonating finish. The 1988
Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta was pleasing for its round, accessible
personality. Though not terribly complex, the wine showed lovely balance and
harmony. Sadly, the 1988 Barbaresco Riserva Asili was flawed and
therefore impossible to evaluate. This flight of 1988s closed with the 1988
Barbaresco Riserva Trentennio, a special bottling the Produttori released
to commemorate their 30th anniversary. The wine is a blend of fruit
from the Pora, Montestefano, Moccagatta and Ovello vineyards. It was a pretty
Barbaresco, yet it came across as somewhat simple and advanced compared to the
other wines in this flight. 

&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1373252540833-Barbaresco+photo4+-+Vinous.jpg">

The 1985s made for a
fascinating comparison, as they were made by an oenologist who lasted all of
two years at the property. Fermentation and maceration times were considerably
shorter than what was customary before and after, and this change in winemaking
techniques, along with the warm vintage, made for a set of Barbarescos that
lacked the complexity of the estate’s finest wines. That said, all of these
1985 were at peak, and we caught them at an optimal stage in their development.
The 1985 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello was rich, round and sweet. Tar, roses
and licorice were among the nuances that flowed from this generous, inviting
wine. The 1985 Barbaresco Riserva Pora was similarly soft and sweet,
with notes of leather, spices and dark fruit that came together nicely in the
glass. The 1985 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà was big and powerful yet
despite its impressive fruit, the wine lacked the delineation of the finest
vintages. 

1978 is of course a
legendary vintage in Piedmont and well-kept bottles still deliver the goods. A
hot summer followed a cool spring in which yields were lowered dramatically by an
irregular fruit set, resulting in some of the most powerful and age worthy
wines that have ever been made in the region. This was an incredible flight
with which to close out the tasting, even if two wines were flawed. The 1978
Barbaresco Riserva Pora was a grand, sweeping Barbaresco loaded with dark
fruit, flowers, earthiness, spices and licorice. Slightly advanced aromas
suggested this wine was at peak. This bottle was a treat as it was totally
complete, even if some rustic elements came through from time to time. The 1978
Barbaresco Riserva Montefico was awesome. This big wine revealed tons of
fruit in a dense, powerful style. The 1978 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà,
possibly the estate’s most legendary wine, lived up to expectations, and then
some. Its fireworks were on full display as sweet layers of ripe, dark fruit
emerged with seemingly no end. Mentholated, balsamic notes lingered on the long
finish in this extraordinary and sublime Barbaresco. Unfortunately our 1978
Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo and Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano
were both in less than perfect shape, but I consoled myself with an extra taste
of the other wines in this magical flight. 

Photos courtesy of Ken Vastola

--Antonio Galloni

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