2012 Barolo: Grace Under Pressure

Two thousand twelve is one of the most intriguing recent vintages in Barolo. The 2012s span a wide range of styles, from Barolos that are lifted and gracious to those that offer quite a bit of richness. Quality is uneven across the board, so readers will have to be selective in order to enjoy the best the vintage has to offer.

The 2012 Growing Season

Mother Nature gave growers plenty to deal with in 2012. The year started off with a brutally cold, harsh winter accompanied by considerable rain and snow. Uneven temperatures persisted throughout the spring. Rain and cool weather arrived in April, along with a dusting of snow, which is highly unusual at that time of year. Temperatures were up and down again throughout May. Rain and poor weather delayed flowering and resulted in an irregular fruit set, with unevenly formed, loose clusters and lower potential yields. Conditions turned quite a bit warmer and drier through June and July, with pronounced elevated temperatures. The first of two hailstorms hit Barolo and La Morra in July. A second touch of hail arrived in early August, but the damage from both storms appears to have been minimal where growers worked diligently in the field and then at harvest to discard damaged fruit. Rain towards the end of the month and into early September caused issues for earlier-ripening varieties, such as Moscato and Dolcetto, but Nebbiolo was spared the worst. Most growers picked their Nebbiolo in early October.

Fall colors in Castiglione Falletto

The 2012 Barolos – What to Expect

Two thousand twelve is a vintage of mid-weight Barolos that reflect the freshness and overall structure of a cooler year. In broad terms, the 2012s have bright acidities, forward fruit and are also lower in alcohol than the 2011s, a combination that gives the wines considerable early appeal. Given the ups and downs of the growing season, it won’t come as much of a surprise that the 2012 Barolos are also highly variable, not just in terms of overall quality, but also in style. This is the main reason why 2012 is virtually impossible to describe in just a few words or sentences.

Some 2012s are light, lifted and also a touch diluted, while others are deep and richly textured. Many wines feel as though they aren’t fully formed, which may be the result of a slightly compact growing season caused by the delayed flowering.