Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco

After tasting well over a thousand Barolos and Barbarescos from the 2004 through 2007 vintages over the past two-plus years, and discussing these vintages in depth with a few dozen winemakers and other Piedmont insiders, I’ve reached the conclusion that it’s impossible to generalize about these very different years—and you can add 2008 to the list as well