Four Decades of Barolo: Wines of the 60s, 70s, 80s, and 90s

A recent gathering of passionate Nebbiolo lovers in Boston provided a great opportunity to open a wide range of wines spanning four decades and the full gamut of styles.   The wines were critically evaluated and discussed without food after which they were heartily enjoyed with a variety of delicious homemade dishes, among them our hosts’ spectacular braised short ribs, which were so exceptional they nearly stole the show.  The wines were decanted for several hours prior to being served and tasted blind.   Given the casual nature of the evening notes on these wines should be interpreted as impressions rather than formal tasting notes.

1988 Angelo Gaja Barbaresco Sorì Tildin – Medium/dark ruby.    Very pretty on the nose, showing aromas of alcohol and macerated cherries with non-varietal notes of bell pepper and earthiness that clearly set this wine apart from the others in the flight. On the palate this shows great length, with plenty of dark cherry fruit and excellent freshness on the finish.  Some tasters liked this less, but I find it hard to argue with this wine’s objective level of quality, though I too would like to have seen more typicity.   Well-stored bottles should last another decade or more. 92 points, tasted 06/05

1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero – Medium ruby.  Giacosa’s 1989 Villero is stunning.  It displays a gorgeous, complex nose of roses, sweet fruit, tar, and spices along with more evolved notes of leather and tobacco.  As the wine sits in the glass, layers of ethereal, sweet fruit emerge, along with suggestions of menthol and spices that provide a note of freshness.  Like a fine Renaissance sculpture, everything here is in perfect proportion and balance.    This too should continue to drink well for at least another decade.  Far and above the most impressive wine of this first flight.  95 points, tasted 06/05

1989 Vietti Barolo Villero – Medium ruby.  Vietti’s 1989 Villero come across as much more modern.   It offers a nose of spices and vanilla followed by very sweet, concentrated fruit with good length and a very long finish.   Some of the meatier flavors suggest a mature Barolo, but the wine’s austere, somewhat lean personality make me think a few more years of aging will be beneficial.  This seems to have been caught at an awkward stage in its evolution, but it seems to offer some outstanding potential.  90+? points, tasted 06/05

1988 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero – Medium ruby.  The 1988 Villero is similar to the 1989, but lacks the former wine’s elegance and supreme sense of balance.  Still, the 1988 Villero is an attractive wine, with a mature nose of leather, dried flowers, underbrush, and spices.   This was not the best bottle of this wine I have tasted, and although it showed a lot of structure, it also lacked the fruit that other bottles have shown.  Well-stored bottles will drink well for at least another ten years, and the 1988 is closer to maturity than the 1989.  92 points, tasted 06/05