'Tis the Season for Rosato

BY ERIC GUIDO | MAY 21, 2020

It’s hard to believe that it’s already May, especially with the chilly winds and rain that have bombarded New York, but the fact is that within a few weeks, those chilly mornings and blustery days will be all but a distant memory, and we’ll all be craving something pink. In fact, this year, this is the case more than any year before, as many of us stare out longingly from our isolation, watching the trees turn greener with each day and the flowers blooming. All we need is a good reason to get outside, without bundling or gearing up for wet weather. What we need is a sunny patch to sit or lounge, the sound of our favorite tunes in the background, the smell of the grill, the jovial commotion of kids playing off in the distance, and the perfect glass of Rosato to top it all off. 

But let’s pause for a moment.

So, you think Rosé, or Rosato for the Italophile in you, is just for absent-minded sipping? Well, of course, it can and should fill that niche, but don’t make the mistake of thinking that refreshing, mouthwatering and fun should also equal boring. No, no, no. You see, the best part about Rosé today is that many producers really put their all into creating stunning examples, overbrimming with signatures of terroir and vintage character. Plus, what better place to look for your Rosé fix than Italy, where varieties and styles abound in an endless litany of expression that will keep you on the edge of your lawn chair or leaning against the patio rail. For me, the grill is where I find my favorite Rosé in the glass, but I want that wine to also travel to the dinner table, which it should be able to. Lastly, the best of these wines can even get a little better with age, so don’t fret losing a couple bottles of Cerasuolo or Nebbiolo Rosato in the cellar for next year. 

With that out of the way, let’s talk about some of the best regions to explore for the best wines of 2019.

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo

If you think that Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a fun and jovial mouthful of deep cherry fruit offset by wild herbs and spice, then just wait until you taste a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, which adds stunning minerality and a juicy character to the wine. What I love most about Cerasuolo, being a fan of Montepulciano, but not so much a fan of the new oak and extraction you find in some of the wines, is that these are a clean, transparent expression of the grape and terroir. Also, just take a look at those vibrant deep red hues of a Cerasuolo, which is completely natural, as the Montepulciano grape is extremely high in anthocyanins. The fact is that most producers will use little to no maceration to obtain that color. In my opinion, there are few other Rosés produced around the world that can create such an enjoyable experience from start to finish. Cerasuolo pleases the eyes, the nose, the palate, and has just enough structure to allow for short-term cellaring.

As for the vintage, 2019 in Abruzzo started off with a mild and rainy winter, which continued into spring, as precipitation was heavy, and temperatures were significantly lower than average. This helped to ward off disease in the vineyards, yet it also created uneven shoots and disrupted flowering, which lowered yields. However, with summer came warm and dry weather with good fluctuations of temperature between day and night, which was followed by a mild and dry autumn. While the early-ripening varieties, such as Pecorino, were harvested earlier than usual, the later ripening varieties, such as Montepulciano, were able to enjoy an extended time on the vines. According to Cristiana Tiberio, of the Tiberio winery, “The 2019 vintage has minerality and freshness coming from the rain and cool temperatures, but more texture and concentration than previous years because of lower yields."