Exploring the Best of Northern Italy

By Antonio Galloni

Friuli

Getting a full grasp on the oenological landscape in Friuli is no easy task. Few, if any, regions can boast such an extraordinary array of varieties, both white and red. Widely planted indigenous white varieties include Tocai Friulano (more on that later), Ribolla Gialla, Picolit and Vitovska. The reds include Refosco, Tazzelenghe, Schiopettino, Terrano and Pignolo, the last of which has recently been resurrected from a period of obscurity. International varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are also found.

Traditionally the Collio has been regarded as the most prestigious sub-zone in Friuli. These hillside vineyards and their cool microclimates are ideally suited to the cultivation of whites. In recent years much progress has been made by high quality producers with the reds as well. The Colli Orientali del Friuli has generally been more highly regarded for reds, although a few producers are also turning out superb whites as well.

One of the regions that continues to surprise is the Carso, whose top growers are producing noteworthy wines. This poor, desolate stretch of mountains runs above Trieste and is one of the least traveled places in Friuli. Most of the terrain is rock, but in a few small, isolated spots vineyards can be planted. The high plain looks out onto the Adriatic and its microclimate is influenced by the violent, cold winds known as bora, although in places that are protected by the winds, the climate is almost Mediterranean. The views can be spectacular, and so too the wines.