Montalcino: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly 

by Antonio Galloni

No other region in Italy is as full of contrasts as Montalcino. These gorgeous, rolling hills south of Siena are home to a variety of diverse microclimates capable of yielding expressions of Sangiovese that at their best are among the most unique wines being made anywhere. The producers' consortium, the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, aided by the marketing savvy of the region’s largest estates, has succeeded in creating an upscale image for the region in a very short time.

Unfortunately all is not well in Montalcino. Any visitor who spends time here will undoubtedly hear grumbling about a number of troubling developments. It is hardly surprising that Montalcino has been in the news quite a bit recently, as several prominent producers are under investigation for allegedly blending international varieties with Sangiovese in their Brunellos. Reports out of Italy seem to change on a day by day basis, so it is probably best to allow for the facts to emerge before rushing to judgement as these are serious allegations that threaten to destabilize the entire appellation.