Central
Tuscany 2003 and 2004: A Tale of Two Vintages 

by Antonio
Galloni

Readers are sure to enjoy exploring new
releases from the 2003 and 2004 vintages in Central Tuscany. Although they
could not be more different in terms of their personalities, 2003 and 2004 have
yielded a large number of exciting wines. In 2003 Tuscany, like the rest of
Europe, suffered through a heat wave the likes of which was virtually
unprecedented. The effects of the scorching heat were exacerbated by near
drought-like conditions. Over the last few years, however, producers have
learned to better cope with such weather, meaning that the vintage has yielded
some gems even if overall quality is irregular. Vintage 2004 saw much more
favorable weather conditions, although it too presented growers with a few
challenges. Those who were diligent, especially with regards to yields, have
turned out spectacular wines. Simply put, 2004 is a superb vintage in Central
Tuscany. I had an enormous amount of fun tasting through the region’s wines and
imagining how they might develop over time. While most of the wines in this
report come from in and around the Chianti Classico region I also include notes
on a handful of recent releases from Maremma. Readers seeking more information
on the wines of that region will find a comprehensive look at the wines in
Issue 169. Brunello di Montalcino will be covered in a forthcoming article.

A complete analysis of the 2003 vintage is no
easy task as results vary significantly from zone to zone. During 2003 the
weather was excessively hot and dry to the point that in many places plants simply
shut down, a condition known as hydric stress which is accentuated in younger
vineyards that have shorter root systems and therefore less access to water.
Because the maturation of sugars was so advanced growers had no choice but to
harvest, and most estates reported picking on average at least 2-3 weeks
earlier than normal. Although the grapes achieved ripeness of the sugars,
phenolic ripeness (the ripeness of the skins and seeds) was much more elusive.
As a result, many wines are penalized by hard, green tannins. Long- time
readers know I am not a huge fan of vintage ratings as they are by nature
general. Wines, particularly those of Italy, encompass an enormous range of
micro-climates, terroirs and varietals, and that is before beginning a discussion
of winemaking styles. As always in difficult vintages it comes down to
producer, producer, producer. Almost without exception the top estates found a
way to make important wines notwithstanding the significant difficulties posed
by the vintage. Many growers spoke of the lessons learned in previous hot years
such as 2000 as keys in interpreting the unique circumstances nature presented
in 2003.

In general, 2003 is most successful in
higher-altitude appellations where Sangiovese, the main indigenous varietal in
Tuscany, has traditionally struggled to ripen under normal weather conditions.
Many of those wines can be somewhat austere and lean in typical vintages, but
the heat of 2003 has helped fill them out with an attractive plumpness of
fruit. The naturally higher acidity of Sangiovese has also helped in preserving
at least some freshness in the wines. The finest 100% Sangiovese bottlings,
including Flaccianello, Percarlo, Le Pergole Torte, and Cepparello are among
the most successful wines in 2003. Another bright spot is Syrah, which thrives
in hot, arid weather.

Stylistically the 2003s are, of course, very
ripe, and while the personality of the vintage may or may not appeal to readers
based on individual preferences, I found few examples of over- ripe or cooked
wines. The best 2003s have enough fruit to cover the harder tannins which are
almost inevitably present. Many of the wines have come together markedly over
the last few months and some may ultimately be deserving of higher scores. That
said, the vintage as a whole is highly irregular, so it pays to choose
carefully.

Vintage 2004 is best described as the
opposite of 2003. The weather was much more balanced throughout the growing
season, which caused plants to unleash the large amounts of energy they had
held in reserve from the previous year. The naturally higher yields obligated
quality-minded producers to green-harvest more aggressively than normal. Like
Nebbiolo, Sangiovese responds especially well to the alternation of hot daytime
temperatures with cool moderating evenings that characterized 2004. Alcoholic
and phenolic ripeness were reached gradually and simultaneously which allowed
growers to harvest under calm conditions and within a time frame considered
normal to late by today’s standards. Even though conditions were quite
favorable, the vintage also posed some challenges. Some growers spoke of rain
during August which caused the grapes to bloat a little, while others,
especially those in later-ripening areas, had to deal with rain towards the end
of the harvest. A strict selection of fruit at the sorting table was critical
and many producers reported making a second selection of finished wines in the
cellar. Those challenges of the vintage notwithstanding, the long growing
season and relaxed harvest presented growers with the conditions to make great
wines. Quality minded producers have turned out a number of exceptional wines
at all levels.

The 2004s feature livelier color,
well-articulated aromatics and finer tannins than the 2003s. The expression of
fruit tends to be more layered, nuanced and delicate than the decidedly opulent
2003s. The acidities are also higher in 2004 which will allow the wines to age
longer as well as more gracefully. Readers will find a bountiful number of
outstanding 2004s from which to choose. The Chianti Classicos are terrific and
full of flavor. It is a great vintage for Tuscany’s finest 100% Sangiovese
luxury-cuvees, including Flaccianello, Percarlo and Cepparello all of which are
stunning. Unlike Nebbiolo, which shows its aromatic complexity even when young,
Sangiovese is a varietal that only develops its full range of aromas and
flavors with extended bottle age. Readers will be tempted to enjoy these 2004s
young, but the wines will only show the full extent of their potential in some
years. Not to be left behind, 2004 is also a superb vintage for the
“Super-Tuscan” blends of indigenous and international varietals. Wines such as
Solaia, Tignanello and Camartina are especially noteworthy. All of the wines
mentioned above feature extraordinary length and finesse as well as sweet,
silky tannins which makes them incredibly appealing even at this early stage.
Simply put, the best 2004s are reference-point wines for the region and are not
to be missed.

Looking ahead, 2005 appears to be an average
vintage. It was a very promising year until September when rain became a factor
during the harvest in many sub-zones. In general the wines are modest in
structure as well as complexity. So far I have tasted only a small number of
finished wines, mostly from Chianti Classico. Although 2005 is completely
different in nature from 2003, quality always comes down to the individual
producer, and top estates that were highly selective made excellent wines.
Growers in Chianti Classico were thrilled with their 2006s when I visited them
towards the end of the year. The weather during last month of the growing
season was hot during the day but cool at night. The 2006s are rich, ripe and
full-bodied wines, but without the excessive concentration and unripe tannins
of 2003. At the same time the later harvests produced wines that appear more
generous and opulent than the 2004s. Although it is still too early to arrive
at a more definitive evaluation of the vintage, 2006 appears to be quite
promising. In the meantime consumers will find a wealth of wines to enjoy from
the 2003 and 2004 vintages.

I would be remiss if I didn't make a few
comments on pricing and availability. Put simply, in a market environment where
prices are being bid to the moon on the 2005 vintages in Bordeaux and Burgundy,
the wines of Central Tuscany offer an attractive alternative in the relative
value they offer, even if the weakening US dollar has eroded some of that
pricing benefit for American consumers. The most desirable wines also remain
significantly easier to obtain than similar trophy wines from other regions. In
conclusion, Tuscany has much to offer readers looking to enjoy some of the
world’s most delicious and food- friendly wines.

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