Thirty Years of Vietti:
Barolo Rocche 1974-20041974&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 911978 &nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ?1982 &nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 941985 &nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ?1988 &nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 921989 &nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 941990 &nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 931996 &nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 941997 &nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 931998 &nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 911999 &nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 942000&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 932001 &nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 942003 &nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti
Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 922004&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti Barolo Rocche&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 96A simple,
informal dinner at <a target="_blank" href="http://www.becco-nyc.com/">Becco</a>, in New York
City’s theater district, provided an incredible opportunity to survey a broad
range of vintages of Vietti’s Barolo Rocche.
&nbsp;Vietti is one of Barolo’s historic
properties. Husband and wife team Alfredo Currado and Luciana Vietti were
pioneers in the 1960s. They were among the first producers to recognize the
unique qualities of their vineyards, many of which are among the finest in the
region, even today. Their 1961 Barolo Rocche was among the earliest Barolos to
be made from a single vineyard rather than from a blend of plots as was the
prevailing custom at the time. Vietti was also one of the first estates to
export a significant amount of their production to overseas markets, especially
to the US. In fact, I remember that when I lived in Italy a few years ago their
wines were always easier to find in the US than locally. Today, the estate is
run by brothers-in-law Luca Currado and Mario Cordero. While the quality of the
Barolos continues to be very high what impresses me most about Vietti is the
quality of all their wines, from top to bottom. The Rocche
vineyard is located in Castiglione Falletto, not too far from the winery. The
hallmarks of this site are perfumed fruit, finessed, silky tannins, and a
sweetness to the fruit that makes the wines accessible at a relatively early
age for Barolo, all qualities that were on full display in the wines. The
atmosphere in the room was electric as we worked our way through this breathtaking
array of wines, which we enjoyed alongside Becco’s traditional Italian fare. The
food was delicious, but on this night our attention was understandably focused
on the wines. Special thanks are due to collector Greg Dal Piaz who organized
the dinner and contributed all of the wines except for the 2003 and 2004, which
were brought by Luca Currado. I think it is
safe to say we were all impressed with the deep color and overall freshness of
the 1974. It wasn’t among my
favorite wines of the night, but its ageworthiness was commendable. Among the
1980s vintages, I loved the 1982 for
its perfumed aromatics, ripe fruit and silky, finessed tannins. It was a great
and very representative 1982. Tasting the 1989 and 1990 side by side provided a
fascinating comparison of these two great Barolo vintages. The 1989 was fresher and more delineated,
with pretty balsamic notes that developed in the glass, while the 1990 presented a distinctly opulent,
fruit-driven personality, but was also further along in its evolution. The 1988 revealed a more slender
personality, but it too offered notable elegance and freshness, something that
is increasingly elusive, as the wines of this vintage have begun to show their
age. Sadly, our bottle of the 1978
wasn’t perfect. The 1985 was
slightly corked, which was a shame, since it was clear that the wine had aged
gracefully and was otherwise intact. Moving into the
1990s, I admired the 1996 and 1999, two wines which share many similarities as
they are both products of cool, fresh growing seasons. The 1996 showed itself to be the pure-breed classic it has always been.
Gorgeous black cherries, baking spices and menthol all emerged from this
vibrant, structured Barolo. Although it was terrific on this night, the firm
tannins suggested it will age along with the best wines of the estate. The 1999 was very similar in style, but it
came across as slightly more elegant, although that is splitting hairs at this
level. The 1997 struck me as a
modern-day 1990. It was hard not to love this wine for the sheer opulence of
its seductive ripe fruit and gorgeous balance. Oddly, the 1998 came across as over-ripe and simple next to the 1997,
something that came as a surprise to everyone at the table. The 2000 enjoyed a stellar showing.
Although it revealed many qualities that were reminiscent of the 1997, it also
appeared to offer better balance and harmony as it was less obvious in its
expression of the hot vintage. I have always
enjoyed the Vietti wines, but in recent years they have stepped up quality in a
remarkable manner. The wines from the 2000s amply prove that the estate is
making the best wines it has in its long, storied history. The 2001 was an adolescent. Sweet, perfumed
and layered, it showed remarkable balance and poise, with the greater volume
and depth it has acquired in bottle. The 2003
was also big and full-bodied, yet it showed remarkable freshness considering
the vintage. Though a great effort in a difficult vintage, the 2003 clearly
suffered when compared to the 2001 and the 2004 that followed. In many ways the
best was saved for last. As much as I loved the 1982, 1989, 1996 and other
vintages, the 2004 was on another
level entirely. I was somewhat surprised by how much the wine had begun to
close down since I last tasted it in bottle a few months prior, but all the
ingredients for a classic, superb Barolo Rocche were there, from the signature
aromatics, to the ripe dark fruit and the finessed tannins. Yet the 2004
revealed an additional level of ripeness and concentration which should allow
it to take its rightful place as one of the finest, if not the finest, Barolo
Rocche Vietti has ever made. -- Antonio Galloni

























































&nbsp;

Content

Engage

Vinous

Social