Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites

by Antonio Galloni

These are interesting times in Tuscany. There is no doubt the region is in the midst of a profound stylistic evolution. A growing number of estates are moving in the direction of more natural viticulture. In the cellar, new oak is down and the use of neutral vessels is up. Cement, once virtually forgotten, is making a huge comeback. As it turns out, the makers of cement tanks and vats are now taking as long as six months to fill orders, something that was unheard of up until very recently. In Chianti, Sangiovese continues to gain favor, while the use of international grapes in Tuscany’s most famous wine has decreased. Readers will find three very different vintages in the market; the cool, powerful 2010s, the radiant 2009s and the irregular 2008s. As always, Italy’s byzantine regulations can be intimidating for those who don’t yet feel comfortable with the wines. Readers who take the time to get to know the producers in this article will be rewarded with a number of stunning bottles at all price points. I tasted the majority of the wines in this report during a week I spent in Tuscany in April 2012, followed by tastings in New York shortly thereafter.