Antinori Solaia – A Complete Retrospective 1978-2010

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New York, NY 10010

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Flight 1 – The Early Years: 1978, 1979, 1982, 1986

1978 Antinori Solaia	94
1979 Antinori Solaia	93
1982 Antinori Solaia	95
1986 Antinori Solaia	91

Flight 2 – The Challenging Vintages: 1987, 1989, 1991, 1993, 2002, 2003

1987 Antinori Solaia	91
1989 Antinori Solaia	92
1991 Antinori Solaia	94
1993 Antinori Solaia	93
2002 Antinori Solaia	90+
2003 Antinori Solaia	92

Flight 3 – Early Classics: 1985, 1988, 1990, 1994

1985 Antinori Solaia	94
1988 Antinori Solaia	95
1990 Antinori Solaia	94
1994 Antinori Solaia	95

Flight 4 – Underrated Vintages: 1996, 1998, 2000, 2005, 2008

1996 Antinori Solaia	93
1998 Antinori Solaia	93
2000 Antinori Solaia	91
2005 Antinori Solaia	93+
2008 Antinori Solaia	92

Flight 5 – Milestones; Part 1: 1995, 1997, 1999, 2001

1995 Antinori Solaia	96
1997 Antinori Solaia	95
1999 Antinori Solaia	96+
2001 Antinori Solaia	96

Flight 6 – Milestones; Part 2: 2004, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010

2004 Antinori Solaia	97
2006 Antinori Solaia	95+
2007 Antinori Solaia	97
2009 Antinori Solaia	96+
2010 Antinori Solaia	98

Chronicling the great wines of Italy for our readers has been a passion of mine for many years. Vinous Events take readers off the sidelines and make them participants in historic, once-in-a-lifetime tastings. It was with that spirit we hosted this complete vertical of Antinori's Solaia a few months ago.

Putting together the first-ever complete vertical of Solaia was a huge undertaking. It almost didn't happen at all. The original date for this tasting/dinner was Monday October 29, the day Hurricane Sandy descended on the tri-state area and began wreaking unprecedented havoc. Nearly eight months passed before the vertical finally took place, which only strengthened our resolve to make the evening even better. The passage of time also allowed for the inclusion of the 2010, which is in my view the greatest Solaia ever made.

Marchese Piero Antinori and longtime Winemaker Renzo Cotarella presented the wines. Even Antinori had never tasted all 28 vintages together. Eleven Madison Park’s Executive Chef Daniel Humm and his team prepared a brilliant menu full of highlights, including the morel and lamb courses both of which were among the most delicious dishes I have ever indulged in at Eleven Madison Park. Wine Director Dustin Wilson and a talented group of sommeliers took care of the wines, a huge undertaking given the large number of vintages. For more perspective, readers might enjoy the videos I shot with Antinori and Cotarella just prior to the dinner.

The 1978 and 1979 Solaia, two early masterpieces

All of the wines for this tasting were sourced directly from Antinori with the exception of the 1979, which made an incredible journey from its home in the cellars of Giorgio Pinchiorri’s restaurant in Tokyo all the way to New York. The bottles were stored standing up for several days prior to allow for a natural decantation of sediment. We opened the wines from youngest to oldest starting a few hours prior to service. I chose not to decant the wines for sediment for a number of reasons. I did not feel the youngest vintages would have much sediment, and they didn’t. At the other end of the spectrum, I did not want to disturb the oldest vintages, most of which were quite delicate. In the middle, specifically with vintages from the mid-1980s to mid-1990s, I thought a natural decantation would be the best way for the wines to show best. Those vintages were generally filtered prior to bottling and I thought decanting might strip the wines of some of their fruit.

The wines were served in thematic flights rather than chronologically, an approach I like for many reasons, two of them being it keeps the palate alert and fresh, but more importantly, the benchmark vintages can be tasted together, which always makes for fascinating comparisons. Overall, I was thrilled with the way the wine showed. While there are always surprises in comprehensive verticals like this, there wasn't a single vintage I wouldn't be happy to own. I have done many complete or near-complete verticals over the last few years. This was one of the most impressive because of the consistency of the wines across vintages of all types.

Solaia emerges from a handful of hillside blocks within Antinori’s vast Tignanello property in San Casciano Val di Pesa in the northern part of the Chianti Classico region. Like many cutting-edge Tuscan wines, Solaia began its lift as an experiment. In 1978 Antinori had a little more Cabernet Sauvignon/Franc for their Tignanello than they needed, so a small amount was bottled separately. The rest, as they say, is history. Pretty much. The first two vintages were 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc. With the 1982 vintage, Solaia took the shape it pretty much has today, which is about 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc. In a few vintages, such as 1985 and 1989-1994, the Cabernet Sauvignon percentage has been closer to 70%, while the Franc has gone up to 10%. The other exception is 2002, a very difficult vintage, in which Solaia is 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. Over the years, Solaia has been a good stylistic barometer for Tuscany. In the 1980s, Solaia was quite classic and Bordeaux-inspired. In the 1990s, ripeness and concentration were both given an extra push, while the 2000s saw a return to earlier harvests and a search for greater finesse. This tasting captured that entire arc, which was fascinating to say the least.

The Solaia vineyard, San Casciano Val di Pesa, Chianti Classico

Flight 1 – The Early Years: 1978, 1979, 1982, 1986

At 35 years of age, the 1978 Solaia is still in great shape. Deep, rich and muscular, with great intensity for a wine of its age, the 1978 is an absolutely joy to taste. Over the years, the 1978 has acquired distinctly Sangiovese-inflected overtones, which is fascinating to contemplate. 94/Drinking window: 2013-2018. The 1979 Solaia is every bit as intriguing. Here it is the wine’s energy, aromatics and brightness that stand out most. The 1979 has aged beautifully, even if it has less volume than the 1978. 93/Drinking window: 2013-2016. An early, totally beautiful Solaia, the 1982 is also utterly impeccable. Here it is the wine’s classic sense of structure that stands out most. There is a purity to the fruit in this vintage that is simply striking. This is the first vintage in which Solaia includes Sangiovese, an early precursor to how the wine would develop in the coming years. Today, the 1982 is impressive. 95/Drinking window: 2013-2020. The 1986 Solaia is remarkable for its fabulous overall balance. The style is a bit rustic, but that is a relatively small complaint for a wine of this age. It’s pretty tough going next to the other wines in this flight. This mid-weight Solaia is best enjoyed over the next few years. 91/Drinking window: 2013-2018.

Piero Antinori discusses the history of Solaia

Flight 2 – The Challenging Vintages: 1987, 1989, 1991, 1993, 2002, 2003

The second flight, which showcases some of the most difficult vintages in the history of Solaia, is one of the most intriguing. The 1991 Solaia is arguably the most complete of these six wines. Still fresh and marvelously focused, the 1991 has aged beautifully. It is of course a bit slender, but all of the elements are in the right place. The 1991 is the product of a short growing season marked by a delayed flowering and early harvest, a combination that is quite unusual. Perhaps for that reason the wine is a bit compact. Its balance, on the other hand, is beyond reproach. What a wonderful and totally unexpected surprise this is. 94/Drinking window: 2013-2018. There is a lot to like about the 1993 Solaia, most notably its combination of fruit and structure. At twenty years of age, it is a gorgeous wine to drink now and over the next handful of years. Stylistically, the 1993 is similar to the 1991, but it has a little more fruit, some of that a reflection of the year and its relative youth. 93/Drinking window: 2013-2020. The 1987 Solaia, from a wet, cool vintage, is very nicely balanced, although it is one of the smaller-scaled wines in this range. This is a pretty Solaia to drink today, as there is no real upside to be gained from further cellaring. 91/Drinking window: 2013-2015. Much the same is true of the 1989 Solaia, another wine endowed with terrific balance, if a bit less showiness than most of the other wines in this complete vertical. 92/Drinking window: 2013-2019. I would be surprised by the 2002 Solaia had I not recently tasted a number of wines from that vintage that continue to exceed expectations. In 2002 production was down sharply because of the cold, rainy growing season, which precluded the Sangiovese from being used. The 2002 was bottled with a different label that included the words ‘Annata Diversa’ i.e. ‘Different Vintage.’ Tasting the 2002 next to the other vintages, it doesn’t really seem all that different. 90+/Drinking window: 2013-2022. Antinori’s 2003 Solaia clearly reflects the personality of the dry, torrid vintage. The 2003 has aged impeccably. It will drink well for another decade, although the style will naturally always be on the opulent side of things. 92/Drinking window: 2013-2023.

Morels; Sauteed with Quinoa, Glazed Sweetbreads and Snap Peas

Flight 3 – Early Classics: 1985, 1988, 1990, 1994

The 1985 Solaia kicks off a flight of Early Classics. I have had the 1985 twice recently and it has always been impressive. It is also very much a wine of its era, which is to say if anything, it is too polished. This was an era in which wines were squeaky-clean. Well-stored bottles still have plenty of fruit although further upside appears to be limited. 94/Drinking window: 2013-2023. I find the 1988 Solaia more interesting than the 1985 because of its greater complexity and better overall structure. This is one of the all-time great Tuscan vintages, and Solaia captures every bit of that profoundness. What a gorgeous wine this is. 95/Drinking window: 2013-2023. Tasted next to so many other great wines, the 1990 Solaia actually suffers a bit. I am sure it would be magnificent on its own, but here it comes comes across as a bit one-dimensional, with less opulence than vintages like 1994 and 1997, but less structure than the 1988 tasted immediately before. Overall, the 1990 is a hugely attractive wine that stops just a touch short of being truly profound. 94/Drinking window: 2013-2023. The 1994 Solaia, takes care of that however, as it is utterly compelling. At nearly twenty years of age, the 1994 remains opulent, full-bodied and voluptuous to the core. This is the best bottle of the 1994 I have ever had. Warm days alternated with cool nights during the final phase of ripening produced one of the greatest Solaias ever made. 95/Drinking window: 2013-2023.

Each wine is served in its own glass, allowing for continual comparisons throughout the evening

Flight 4 – Underrated Vintages: 1996, 1998, 2000, 2005, 2008

The 2005 Solaia is arguably the most complete of this flight of underrated vintages. Wines from cool years are rarely flattering when they are young, but often age gracefully, which is certainly the case here. The 2005 remains vibrant, fresh and capable of developing beautifully for another decade, perhaps longer. This is a bit of a dark horse vintage. I won’t be surprised if the 2005 continues to develop positively in bottle. 93+/Drinking window: 2013-2023. In a similar vein, the 1996 Solaia is tense and vibrant to the core. It will appeal most to readers who prefer wines with bright acidity and lively minerality. 93/Drinking window: 2013-2023. The 1998 Solaia is an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. Not a blockbuster, the 1998 has developed nicely, but also appears to have limited upside potential from here. 93/Drinking window: 2013-2020. Much the same can be said about the 2000 Solaia, another wine with plenty of near and medium-term appeal, but less potential for aging. 91/Drinking window: 2013-2018. I have never loved the 2008 Solaia, and that impression is reinforced on this night. If anything, the 2008 suffers in this setting, where the differences between vintages is stark. A mid-weight Solaia, the 2008 looks like it will drink best over the near and medium-term. 92/Drinking window: 2013-2020.

Lamb; Roasted with Freekeh, Mint and Ramps

Flight 5 – Milestones; Part 1: 1995, 1997, 1999, 2001

The level of excitement in the room grows palpably as we approach the first of two flights that encompass all of the iconic vintages. The 1995 Solaia is simply magnificent. Here it is the wine’s combination of richness and vibrancy that impresses. The 1995 is a wine of total balance, harmony and class. What a great showing. 96/Drinking window: 2013-2025. For many years, the 1997 Solaia was super-concentrated. Actually, it still is pretty intense, but over the last few years, some of the baby fat has begun to melt away, revealing a wine with tons of nuance. The 1997 clearly belongs in this flight of milestones. This is another memorable Solaia with no signs of fading. 95/Drinking window: 2013-2027. Power and structure are the hallmarks of the 1999 Solaia, a wine that will drink well for another 15-20 years, if not longer. The firm, structured style will thrill classicists. In a flight of standout vintages, the 1999 truly excels. For years, the 1999 was very tight. It finally seems to be blossoming. 96+/Drinking window: 2013-2029. The 2001 Solaia is similar to the 1999, but with an added level of finesse that takes the place of some of the brute power found in the 1999. The 2001 drinks well better young than the 1999, but it is also likely to mature earlier. 96/Drinking window: 2013-2031.

Longtime Winemaker Renzo Cotarella discusses the wines

Flight 6 – Milestones; Part 2: 2004, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010

The wines really enter the stratosphere with the last flight. I consider the 2004 Solaia the first of the truly epic modern Solaia. This is the first vintage in which the component wines were aged separately and blended towards the end of aging. That, along with more care in managing temperature in fermentation and aging, and the fabulous vintage combine to produce a super-silky, polished Solaia. Sweet, refined tannins and pure sophistication are the hallmarks of this dazzling, totally head-spinning Solaia. At nearly ten years of age, the 2004 is just as magnificent as it has always been. 97/Drinking window: 2014-2034. The 2006 Solaia is a much more powerful, statuesque wine than the 2004. Here, the wine’s structure and pure vertical intensity dazzle from start to finish. The 2006 is built for serious cellaring. Readers lucky enough to own it should the thrilled. 95+/Drinking window: 2016-2041. Soft contours, silky tannins and textural volume are the hallmarks of the 2007 Solaia. A riper, denser version of the 2004 with the richness of the 1997, the 2007 will please readers with a long drinking window of pure pleasure. The style is intense and bold. Readers who prefer more subtlety will find that in other vintages, as the 2007 is a voluptuous, racy, turn-on with tons of immediacy but less in the way of detail or nuance. 97/Drinking window: 2015-2037.

Daniel Humm and Antonio Galloni discuss the menu and pairings

The 2009 Antinori Solaia is similar to the 2007 in its volume and richness, but it is less extroverted. This is another gorgeous Solaia that will drink well pretty much during its entire life. The warm year yielded a racy Solaia with no hard edges and fabulous overall balance. 96+/Drinking window: 2019-2039. In this context, it is obvious why the 2010 is the greatest Solaia ever made. The 2010 has it all; expressive aromatics, wonderfully nuanced fruit and tons of supporting structure. The 2010 has been magnificent since I started tasting the component wines in 2011. Not that it is in bottle, it is every bit as stunning as I had hoped. Readers will not want to miss this towering masterpiece from the Antinori family. Ideally, the 2010 should be cellared until at least age ten. This mesmerizing, wonderfully complete Solaia represents the height of finesse Antinori started to achieve with the 2004. In time, the 2010 will be recognized as one of the all-time legendary Solaias. Actually, it already is. I can’t think of a better wine with which to wrap up this monumental, truly once-in-a-lifetime tasting. 98/Drinking window: 2020-2045.

Food:

Foie Gras; Terrine with Black Truffle, Purple Potatoes and Green Asparagus

Parsnip; Roasted with Sesame, Parsley and Dijon

Morels; Sauteed with Quinoa, Glazed Sweetbreads and Snap Peas

Guinea Fowl; Roasted with Creamed Nettle and Potato

Lamb; Roasted with Freekeh, Mint and Ramps

Ossu Iraty; Aged with Spring Greens and Roasted Walnuts

-- Antonio Galloni

Cover: The first complete vertical of Solaia spanning 28 vintages

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