I am not sure what started it, but sometime this spring I got the bug for Sangiovese. Big time. Maybe it was the book I was asked to collaborate on. Or perhaps it was the fabulous 1995 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva I had at one of New York City’s best restaurants. At some point I decided it would be fun to taste verticals of a number of Tuscany’s icon wines, so here you have it.