Checking in on the 1998
Barolos&nbsp;

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 1998 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Altare Barolo Brunate
 </td>
 <td>
 94 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti Barolo Rocche
 </td>
 <td>
 93 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Vietti Barolo Lazzarito
 </td>
 <td>
 93 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Gaja
 Sperss&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 95 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del
 Falletto&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 95 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina
 Francia&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 93 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998 Massolino
 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Clerico Barolo Ciabot
 Mentin Ginestra&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 92 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Roberto Voerzio
 Barolo
 Cerequio&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 92 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; G. Mascarello Barolo
 Monprivato
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 92 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Scavino Barolo Bric
 del Fiasc (magnum)
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Bartolo Mascarello Barolo&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 92 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; G.Rinaldi Barolo
 Brunate/Le Coste&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 91 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Borgogno Barolo
 Storico&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 88 
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1998&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Scarzello Barolo
 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 </td>
 <td>
 87
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>

1998 has always been an interesting vintage for
Barolo. Caught between the more hyped 1996 and 1997 on one end, and 2000 and
2001 on the other, the 1998s have often been overlooked. It also didn’t help
that the wines were first released during a period global economic malaise.
While 1998 is not a truly iconic, legendary vintage, these Barolos are great
choices for medium-term drinking as a number of wines are entering their early
maturity, making them great choices for readers who are cellaring wines from
Piedmont’s sturdier vintages such as 1996, 1999 and 2001. 

Piedmont experienced mostly warm weather in 1998
with spells of drought, though nowhere near the extremes seen in 1997. The
wines have always been perfumed and accessible, with an attractive softness to
the fruit. Even better, the vast majority of the wines have never shut down to
the extent that wines from cooler vintages often do. The 1998s are extremely
consistent across the board, and that level of outstanding quality may very
well end up being the vintage’s strongest attribute. As is typically the case,
the Barolos of La Morra and Barolo are the most forward, while those of
Serralunga are the freshest. Most of these wines were from my cellar, purchased
and cellared since release, although I tasted a few of the wines a second time
with the producers. 

Elio Altare’s 1998
Barolo Brunate is one of the
highlights of the vintage. A wine of rare pedigree, this soft-textured Barolo
caresses the palate with plenty of ripe red fruit, sweet spices and mint. Today
the wine comes across as especially youthful, and with the context of the
vintage it is one of the most vibrant wines I tasted. I am always amazed at the
quality Altare achieves with what are essentially second-choice grapes from
Marco Marengo’s vines in the prestigious Brunate vineyard. 94/Drinking
window: 2009-2020. Luciano Sandrone’s 1998
Barolo Cannubi Boschis is another of the
standouts in this tasting. Layers of perfumed dark fruit flow effortlessly from
the glass with wonderful depth and purity. The wine offers a long, intensely
harmonious personality and a refined, aristocratic finish. The 1998 is an
excellent choice for readers who may also be cellaring bottles of the 1996 or
the 1999, two wines that offer considerable upside potential. 94/Drinking
window: 2009-2019. 

These two Barolo from Vietti are exceptional. I
remember visiting the estate when these wines were released and purchasing them
for my cellar. Over the years, I never found the 1998s fully convincing and on
the same level as today’s wines (which are often extraordinary) as I often came
away with the sense that the late 1990s were a bit of an experimental period
for winemaker Luca Currado. Be that as it may, the proof is in the bottle, and
these wines from Vietti are truly special. The 1998 Barolo Rocche
shows remarkable clarity and precision in a harmonious expression of the
hillside Rocche vineyard in Castiglione Falletto. The 1998 is not a profound
Rocche, but readers will have a very hard time finding a wine that offers more
pure pleasure in this vintage. This is a great bottle of this wine. 93/Drinking
window: 2009-2019. The estate’s 1998 Barolo Lazzarito, from a vineyard
in Serralunga, has developed splendidly. Always the most heavily oaked of the
Vietti Barolos, the Lazzarito has incorporated its oak gracefully and the
aromas and flavors are now beautifully melded into the dark, balsamic nuances
that are the hallmarks of this site. To say I am deeply impressed with the 1998
Lazzarito would be a massive understatement; I only wish I had more of it! 93/Drinking
window: 2009-2019. 

One of the things I have learned over the
years is that you can count on Angelo Gaja to make a strong showing in
just about any tasting. Yes, I know, Sperss is not Barolo (a small percentage
of Barbera is added), but at its core the wine captures the essence of
Serralunga and is as representative of these hillside vineyards as any Barolo.
Dark tar, smoke, leather, spices, menthol and black cherries all make an
appearance in this muscular, full-throttle wine. While the vast majority of
1998 Barolos can be enjoyed today, the 1998 Sperss could use another few
years in the cellar. It isn’t a crime to open a bottle today, but this is one
of the few 1998s that still has upside potential. Simply put, the 1998 Sperss
is a jewel. 95/Drinking window: 2010-2023. Incidentally, I tasted through the
entire 1998 Gaja lineup last year and found all the wines outstanding.
Highlights included Sorì San Lorenzo and Sorì Tildìn, which along with Sperss,
are terrific wines. 

Bruno Giacosa’s 1998 Barolo Le Rocche del
Falletto is another gorgeous
wine. The fresh, floral bloom the wine had in its infancy has softened and the
aromas today are moving towards sensations of dried flowers and spices. The
wine retains a lovely inner sweetness backed up by considerable structure,
which leads me to believe that the tannins might very well outlast the fruit.
This is a beautiful Le Rocche, but probably won’t be one of the longest-lived vintages
of this wine. The wine can be enjoyed today if opened several hours prior to
serving, but should also drink well for at least another decade. 95/Drinking
window: 2009-2019. 

The 1998 Barolo Cascina
Francia from Giacomo
Conterno is delicate, layered and perfumed, showing gorgeous finesse and
lovely inner tension in its fruit. Overall this is a soft, accessible Cascina
Francia that is drinking beautifully today and should last for at least another
decade. Both bottles I tasted from the property were truly sublime but I should
point out that I, and others, have had decidedly different experiences with
bottles purchased in the US, which have often come across as decidedly more
austere for reasons that admittedly remain somewhat of a mystery. For those who
are curious, I didn’t included a note on the 1998 Monfortino as it doesn’t take
a rocket scientist to conclude that the wine is much too young to deliver any
real pleasure at this stage, no matter how thrilling the wine might be to
taste! 93/Drinking window: 2009-2019. Massolino's 1998 Barolo Riserva
Vigna Rionda showed beautifully and
consistent with previous tastings. This is one of the 1998s that desperately
needs to be opened several hours before drinking as the wine benefits immensely
from air. Sweet roses, violets, menthol, spices, licorice, leather and plums
are just some of the nuances that emerge from this firm, classically-built
Barolo. 92/Drinking window: 2009-2019. 

Domenico Clerico’s 1998 Barolo Ciabot Mentin
Ginestra is one of the most
full-throttle wines of the vintage. Still deeply-colored, this authoritative
wine possesses tons of mineral-infused dark fruit intermingled with French oak
and menthol. This remains one of the most tannic and firm wines of the vintage.
My impression is that the fruit will fade before the tannins melt away. Still,
this is a beautiful wine Barolo to enjoy over the next few years, although it
is not a wine for the timid. 93/Drinking window: 2009-2016. Roberto
Voerzio's 1998 Barolo Cerequio is one of the more forward of the wines,
which is not surprising considering given the location of the vineyard. The
wine reveals notes of white truffles and mushrooms that complement the dark
fruit. There is impressive concentration here, yet the wine is clearly
approaching its tertiary stage. I consider 1998 part of a transitionary period
for Voerzio that begins around 1994 and ends around 1998. The explosion of
quality at this small estate starts with the 1999s, after which Voerzio has
been on a roll. 92/Drinking window: now-2013. 

The 1998 Monprivato from Giuseppe
Mascarello perfectly embodies the quality of the vintage. This is a
relatively slender, accessible Monprivato, yet all of the elements are
perfectly in balance. The sweet aromatics meld seamlessly into a soft palate of
fruit framed by ripe, silky tannins. The 1998 is a great introduction to
Monprivato, and is one of the more beautiful, harmonious and accessible wines
of the vintage. Today, the 1998 does not appear to be built for the long haul,
but I wouldn’t be entirely surprised if I am underestimating the wine’s
potential longevity given how gracefully wines of lesser vintages have aged. 92/Drinking
window: 2009-2017. The 1998 Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc, tasted from
magnum, is one of the more accessible wines of the vintage. It reveals a
super-ripe, concentrated style with notable inner sweetness and perfume. The
finish is long and silky although the 1998 doesn’t have the sheer pedigree of
top vintages here. 92/Drinking window: 2009-2018. 

Bartolo Mascarello’s 1998 Barolo is another of the more weightless, ethereal wines in the vintage.
Sweet tobacco, earthiness, plums and prunes flow in a soft, elegant style. This
is another Barolo that is simply delicious today, although readers seeking a
more developed, tertiary experience may want to give the wine a few more years
in bottle. 92/Drinking window: 2009-2019. A stone’s throw from the Cantina
Mascarello is the other temple of traditional winemaking in Barolo, the cellars
of Beppe Rinaldi. Rinaldi’s 1998 Barolo
Brunate/Le Coste is a throwback. A big, massive wine, this Barolo bursts
with dark fruit in an energetic, vibrant style. There are elements of volatile
acidity that might throw off some tasters, but readers who can look past those
imperfections will find much to admire here. Certainly quality and consistency
has improved markedly at this property since the 1998 was made. 91/Drinking window:
2009-2024. 

Unfortunately I also encountered some disappointments,
including an out of balance, excessively austere 1998 Borgogno Barolo
Storico and a green, awkward 1998 Scarzello Barolo, but these wines
represent exceptions to what is otherwise a very strong vintage for the great
Barolos of Piedmont.

&nbsp;-- &nbsp;Antonio
Galloni

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