Gianbattista Columbu Malvasia di Bosa: 1992–2011

BY IAN D'AGATA | FEBRUARY 6, 2018 

Rare and unique, Malvasia di Bosa is an oxidative-style wine, like Sherry, but from Sardinia. Columbu estate, featured in Mondovino, is the top producer of Malvasia di Bosa. The estate’s Riserva is a wonderful aperitif and after dinner drink, but matches well with anything involving capers, smoked fish, honey, shellfish and olives.

Make no mistake about it: Malvasia di Bosa is one of Italy’s most exciting wines. Unfortunately, it’s also one of the country’s rarest. Nobody makes a better Malvasia di Bosa than the Giovanni Battista Columbu estate, the recognized star of the denominazione. In fact, a star in more than one way, given the estate was prominently featured in the 2004 documentary movie Mondovino.

Malvasia di Sardegna vineyards at the Columbu estate

Learning About Malvasia di Bosa: The Wine

Malvasia di Bosa is the name of an Italian wine (and denomination) made with the Malvasia di Sardegna grape (95% minimum) grown in the countryside of the townships of Bosa, Magomadas, Flussio, Suni, Tinnura, Modolo and Tresnuraghes, all in the province of Oristano on the western coast of central Sardinia. Bosa especially is one of the most charming towns in what is one of Italy’s prettiest regions, the Caribbean-like places on Sardinia. Located on the north bank of the Temo River, the current city was founded in 1112 but was the site of Phoenician settlements already thousands of years ago. I strongly recommend a visit, as the old cobblestone alleys, pastel-colored storefront, simple family-run restaurants and beaches make it a lovely vacation destination. Of course, it helps to know that the area makes some lovely, memorable wines too.

Malvasia di Bosa is made in different styles. The official guidelines allow production of a Malvasia di Bosa Amabile or Dolce (which means off-dry and sweet respectively, but this wine is usually off-dry), Passito (super sweet made from air-dried grapes), Spumante (sparkling) and Riserva. As its name implies, the Riserva is meant to be a more structured wine and requires at least two years of aging before release, one of which has to be in wood. It is the most important wine of the appellation, although I have had some interesting Dolce, Passito and even sparkling versions as well.

The flor and the Malvasia di Bosa