Barolos of the 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s: Notes from a Memorable Tasting

A recent gathering with friends provided the perfect occasion to open a few special bottles of our favorite wines. The theme was aged, traditionally made Barolos.  The setting was a beautiful country home set high in the Appenine mountains, on the border between Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany.  The estate was gorgeous and peaceful, the only sounds to be heard were the barks of the playful dogs and the gentle trot of the horse.  The weather was chilly so we lit the fireplace.  First we tasted the wines, then we enjoyed them alongside a traditional Emilian menu of tortellini in brodo and bollito misto.  While it is fun to taste wines like this side-by-side, doing so inevitably leads to comparisons of the wines.  These Barolos are such idiosyncratic, highly individual wines, that they are probably best enjoyed on their own, without the presence of other wines.

1964 Giacomo Conterno Barolo—Light strawberry red in color.  Conterno’s 1964 Barolo presents an incredibly fresh, delicate and perfumed nose that continues seamlessly onto the palate, showing flavors of cherries and spices, and finishing with very sweet, soft tannins.  I am at a loss to explain or describe this wine’s extraordinary youthfulness and sheer appeal.  This wine is inviting and refreshing beyond words.  My impression is of drinking a stunning wine at its absolute peak.  Truly exceptional and unforgettable.  Made from a blend of grapes the estate purchased from the Ginestra zone in Monforte, and Serralunga.  98 points