Discovering Italy’s Finest Wine Valuesby Antonio Galloni 

Preparing
the Best Values issue is always something I look forward to with much
excitement. In fact, I get much more satisfaction and pleasure from finding a
great budget-priced wine than I do tasting a high-flying wine from one of
Italy’s famous regions. After all, a $50 or $100 bottle of wine should be
great, but finding a delicious budget-friendly wine takes a lot more work. Even
with a very weak US dollar, readers will find a veritable treasure trove of
great, inexpensive wines from Italy. In order to make this article easier to navigate,
I have divided coverage into four main areas that mirror my broader coverage;
Piedmont, Tuscany, Northern Italy, and Central/Southern Italy.

Seeking out
the best values often means looking beyond the most coveted varieties and
regions. Of course, this plays perfectly to the strengths of a country with
somewhere between 1,000 and 2,000 indigenous grape varieties, most of which
remain undiscovered by consumers on a wide scale. In addition, consider the
diversity of Italy’s wine-producing regions, which encompass everything from
the dry, desert-like heat of Sicily all the way to the Alpine microclimates of
Alto Adige, and everything in between. Add to that a series of strong vintages,
and the marketplace today is literally awash with hundreds of compelling wines
that can be had for $25 or less, yet will deliver tremendous pleasure.

Given the
immense wealth of diversity today’s consumer faces, it is only natural that
readers’ attention gravitates towards the highest scoring wines. I urge readers
to avoid that temptation and look beyond the scores to read the actual tasting
notes as well. The simple fact is that not every wine in the world can be a 90+
point wine. I have spent several months scouring through hundreds of bottles to
find the best values in Italian wine, and personally I would be thrilled to
drink any of the wines in this article on any day of the week.

Readers are
likely to find wines from 2007 and 2006 on retailers’ shelves. 2007 was a
freakish year in Italy. There was no winter and virtually no rain in many
regions. Temperatures remained warm into the spring, when for the first time in
living memory, fruit trees and vegetables were all a full month ahead of
schedule. Towards the end of the summer temperatures moderated, but that was
only helpful to late-ripening varieties. Broadly speaking 2007 is more
successful for reds than whites. The whites are more variable as in some cases
the grapes didn’t develop their usual levels of aromatic complexity. The 2007
reds don’t seem to suffer from the same issues. By comparison, it is awfully
hard to go wrong with anything in 2006. It is an exceptional vintage in terms
of quality and consistency for both white and reds. Generally speaking, the
wines are ripe and generous, but also beautifully balanced. It is hard to find
a region in Italy that didn’t make great wines in 2006.

Last but not
least, a word on pricing is in order. Where possible I have quoted the official
retail pricing provided by the US importer, which assumes that every layer in
the distribution chain takes a full mark-up. In this challenging economic
environment that will often not be the case, and many of these wines may be
available for lower prices, particularly in intensely competitive markets. I
have chosen to include a handful of wines that are slightly above our $25
threshold because exchange rate volatility has temporarily pushed the wines
above this level. Pricing in other countries, of course, will vary. In one of
the more fascinating recent trends in Italian wine, several of the larger
importers have begun producing wine under their own labels. With retail prices
in the $10 range, the wines often offer excellent quality for the money. As
consumers trade down in tough economic times, this price point becomes increasingly
appealing, and these importers are well-positioned to essentially own large
chunks of this market segment, at the expense of some of the better-known and
more- expensive brands they represent. It will be interesting to see how this
new market dynamic unfolds.

PIEDMONT

When it
comes to sheer diversity, its awfully hard to beat Piedmont for value. That may
sound hard to believe considering the prices top Barolos and Barbarescos fetch
in today’s market, but the fact remains that Piedmont offers extraordinary
diversity and quality at the budget-level. Consider that you could a build a
crash-course in Piedmont wines around five bottles in this article covering the
major native varieties (Arneis, Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo and Moscato) and
spend a total of somewhere between $100-$125, which divided by a group of six
tasters would be around just $20 a person. How many regions in the world can
offer that level of breadth? And that is before you add some of the other
varieties such as Gavi, Freisa, Brachetto, to name but a few of the
lesser-known grapes. When looking for value in Piedmont a good rule of thumb is
to stick with entry-level wines of the best estates whenever possible. More
often than not top Barolo and Barbaresco producers treat their Dolcettos and
Barberas with the same care as they lavish on their higher-end bottlings.

Arneis is a
perfect aperitif or summertime wine, but its floral qualities and delicate
fruit are best enjoyed up to one year after the harvest. Still, Arneis is an
incredibly unique and rewarding wine. The Dolcettos in both 2006 and 2007 are
so delicious that my tastings left me wondering why on earth I don’t drink the
wines more often. The same is true of the Barberas and Nebbiolos. Most Barberas
in the under-$25 price range will be the entry-level 2006s. These wines are
typically made in a fresh style, with little or no oak. In a ripe year like
2006 the wines are especially generous and fleshy. I also tasted a number of
outstanding 2006 Langhe Nebbiolos that offer terrific value for the money.
Lastly, there are few better ways to end a meal than with a glass of Moscato.
Unfortunately there is an ocean of Moscato in the marketplace, and the
longstanding assumption is that all of the wines are essentially the same.
Nothing could be further from the truth. Great Moscato requires all of the same
things needed to make any important wine; a first-class site, low yields and
most important of all, the vision and passion of a dedicated grower. I have
attempted to highlight the artisan producers who make the finest versions of
this great dessert wine.

TUSCANY

Although
Tuscany doesn’t offer the sheer varietal diversity of Piedmont, Campania,
Sardegna and other regions, it compensates for that with an enormous number of
delicious, value-priced wines. Tuscany’s strong suit is reds, particularly
those where Sangiovese is the principal grape. Readers will find a vast number
of choices from all of Tuscany’s appellations. In particular, consumers should
focus on the 2006s. This ripe, but well-balanced vintage produced a stunning
set of wines at all quality levels across the region’s main production zones.
The best 2006 Rossos from Montalcino are fantastic, and in some cases will
challenge the higher- priced
Brunellos, even if in many cases prices have crept up above our $25 limit. In
Chianti Classico I tasted a number of exciting 2006s that are fat, juicy and
loaded with fruit. Morellino di Scansano remains Tuscany’s greatest source of
value- priced wines. Scansano, and the rest of Maremma for that matter, are
home to some of the warmest microclimates in Tuscany and yield wines of notable
breadth and ripeness. While 2006 is a vintage that can almost be purchased
across the board, the cooler 2005s require a more selective approach, yet I
found a number of gorgeous, fresh wines that will deliver considerable pleasure
as well, particularly over the near-term.

THE BEST OF NORTHERN ITALY

With the
exception of Campania, I can think of no better region to explore the breadth of
Italian whites than Alto Adige. Many of the region’s top wineries are
cooperatives, something which is quite normal in this part of the country.
These estates benefit from a favorable taxation regime, and are able to pass
along those savings to consumers in the form of very accessible pricing. Alto
Adige excels in a wide range of both indigenous and international varieties.
The wines tend to be steely and minerally, with gorgeous aromatics and tons of
varietal character. Highlights are Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sylvaner, Kerner
and Gewürtzraminer, a variety that was discovered in the town of Termeno. Alto
Adige doesn’t do as well with reds in the value category, as those varieties
tend to ripen best only in the finest sites with the best exposures.
Incidentally, Alto Adige is one of the most beautiful, pristine regions in
Italy, and is home to some of the country’s finest restaurants, not to mention
world-class skiing. Alto Adige is a great destination for travelers seeking an
off-the-beaten track experience in Italy.

Veneto is home to Venice, Romeo and Juliet and a
number of gorgeous smaller towns, among other popular tourist destinations, yet
the wines don’t get the recognition they deserve. For starters, the sparkling
Prosecco is a delicious aperitif wine that embodies the joy of the Italian
lifestyle, otherwise known as la dolce vita. There has been a huge boom
of interest in this grape as markets for sparkling wines have literally
exploded across the world, yet Prosecco is no different than any other high
quality wine. Superior sites farmed judiciously by diligent producers yield
wines of great personality and character that stand out from the oceans of
mass-produced Prosecco that flood the market. In the last few years the rise of
interest in sparkling wines and rosés has given birth to one of the most
unfortunate creations in recent memory, pink Prosecco. I have yet to taste one
of these wines that merits any serious consideration, (that includes other rosé
sparklers from Northern Italy) and it is my sincere hope that these wines will disappear
just as quickly as they arrived, for they are nothing more than a crass attempt
to cash in on a fad. Veneto’s other great white is the Garganega-based Soave.
Much maligned in the past, today Soave produces a number of gorgeous whites
that merit consideration. The indigenous Garganega is an expressive, generous
grape capable of notable nuance and complexity when it is farmed with care.
Although Soaves can include international varieties such as Chardonnay, the
best wines are those made from 100% Garganega or predominantly Garganega with
the addition of other local varieties.

Of course,
Veneto is also home to Valpolicella, Amarone and a number of magnificent sweet
wines. While many of these fall outside the budget level, I did taste a number
of delicious Valpolicellas and other entry-level wines. Like Soave,
Valpolicella is a wine with a checkered past, but today’s wines are building a
new and well-deserved reputation for quality. At its best, Valpolicella is a
soft, fruity wine meant for casual drinking. Readers will also find quite a few
ripasso Valpolicellas on retailers’ shelves. Producers give these
Valpolicellas a secondary fermentation on the lees of their Amarone to give the
wines more color, richness and complexity. Often marketed along the lines of
‘baby Amarone’ the reality is that many of these wines are overrated, but a few
standouts merit considerable attention. As always, readers will do best by
sticking with top producers.

Emilia
Romagna is a region that doesn’t get a
lot of attention in serious wine circles, yet I tasted a number of interesting
offerings. Lambrusco is another Italian wine that is often dismissed, but at
its best it is well worth discovering. Given the intense regional character of
Italy’s wines, it is only natural that they pair best with local cuisine. I
can’t think of anything better to accompany a plate of artisanal mortadella or
home-made tortellini in brood than a great Lambrusco (or its cousin Bonarda
frizzante), and take my word for it, there are a few out there. Emilia
Romagna is also capable of producing good to excellent Sangiovese. These wines
are rarely, if ever, as profound as Tuscan Sangioveses, but the wines can
deliver excellent value.

Friuli has been in the spotlight for some time, and
as a result, it is harder to find value-priced wines. There is a vast
difference in quality among the various appellations, and I often find that an
additional $5 or so per bottle makes a huge difference here, as the higher-end
wines are often not that much more expensive than the under $25 wines. In Lombardy,
the famous Franciacorta appellation is in a similar position. Sadly, the
vast majority of wines fall outside our $25 price range. The same thing is true
in Valtellina. Only sites with the best exposures make notable wines, and the
rugged landscapes are very expensive to farm, both of which result in few wines
at the value level.

CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN ITALY

Campania is a region that fascinates to no end.
Blessed with an extraordinary range of highly expressive indigenous varieties,
unique terroirs and an oenological history that dates back several
thousand years, Campania is a gem waiting to be discovered. Among the whites,
the fruity Falanghina can be a stand out, but only when made by quality-minded
producers. The intensely mineral-driven Greco di Tufo is a great food wine,
particularly with raw fish and seafood. Fiano di Avellino is typically rounder
and softer than Greco, yet it, too, can offer notable complexity. I was quite
surprised when a well-known importer told me how difficult it is to sell the
these wines. There are few whites that are more food- friendly than those of
Campania, and they can still be had for reasonable prices. Among the reds,
Aglianico reigns supreme. I tasted a number of entry-level bottlings that
capture the unique qualities of this compelling indigenous grape. Producers
have only scratched the surface with Aglianico. Hopefully, they will soon stop
trying to impress consumers with sheer opulence and French oak and begin to
focus on making wines of more elegance and finesse that express the full range
of this important variety’s qualities.

I continue
to be amazed by the stunning quality of the wines of Sardinia. While
some producers have succumbed to the temptation of pricing their wines for the
billionaire jet set crowd of the island’s Costa Smeralda, plenty of values can
still be found. Nowhere is the white Vermentino as convincing as it is in
Sardinia. A perfumed, floral white, at its best Vermentino delivers tremendous
pleasure for the money. Wines range from the fresher stainless-steel
Vermentinos, to those made in a softer, more fruit-driven style. The island’s
array of native red varieties is truly stunning. Monica, Carignano, Bovale
Sardo, and above all, Cannonau (Grenache), yield wines of notable richness and
depth. Amazingly, many of the island’s vineyards date back to pre-phylloxera
times. The soils contain a high percentage of sand, which filled holes in the
vines and prevented the disease from spreading as it did throughout the rest of
Europe. Sardinia remains the most overlooked region in Italy among US
consumers, but that won’t be the case forever.

Sicily is another region that is capable of making a
wide array of compelling wines. Among the whites, readers should focus on
distinctive native varieties like Inzolia and Cataratto, which yield perfumed,
aromatic wines. Among the reds, Nero d’Avola is a variety whose potential has
only been scratched. Nero d’Avola can be light-colored and delicate, almost
like Pinot Noir, but it can also produce big, full-bodied, gamey wines. Nerello
Mascalese, which flourishes on the Etna, is capable of reds that resemble Pinot
or Nebbiolo, but sadly, these wines remain hard to find in the value space. I
confess to not being a fan of international varieties in Sicily, red or white.
Will Sicily ever produce a Merlot that can compete with the best of Pomerol, or
a Chardonnay that can stand next to a wine from Napa Valley or Burgundy? Not a
chance. There are a few interesting wines being made with international grapes,
but they tend to be wines that blend indigenous and international varieties
with a rare level harmony and grace.

&nbsp; Abruzzo is capable of delicious
Montepulcianos and Trebbianos, as long as producers don’t get overly carried
away with concentration and French oak. Apulia is perhaps even more
exciting. Although quality is disastrously uneven, the region is home to Primitivo
(Zinfandel), Negroamaro and other compelling varieties whose true potential has
yet to be fully tapped. In Basilicata it is Aglianico, especially when
grown in the Vulture district, that is worthy of consideration. The Marche is
most famous for the white Verdicchio, yet the region is also capable of making
delicious reds. Umbria is best suited for reds, with the exception of
Orvieto, which can be interesting on occasion.

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