Giuseppe Mascarello Vertical Tasting

In May of this year I attended two very special tastings at Cru in New York.  Winemakers Roberto Conterno and Mauro Mascarello were in town to present extensive verticals of their Barolos.  The first tasting took place in the afternoon and featured current releases as well as a few older vintages.  Although I generally avoid trade events because they don’t allow enough time to accurately assess each wine, this sit-down tasting, which was hosted by importer Doug Polaner, was extremely well organized.  Cru Wine Director Robert Bohr and his staff did an outstanding job in coordinating the service of the wines, which was no small feat.  Between the afternoon tasting and the dinner that followed, I don’t think I have ever tasted so many profound and emotionally moving wines in a single day!  The wines were double decanted a few hours prior to serving.

Mauro Mascarello led the group though several flights of his most famous wine, Monprivato, as well as his newer Riserva bottling, Ca’ d’ Morissio.   The Giuseppe Mascarello winery boasts a rich lineage that goes back to 1881 when Giuseppe Mascarello purchased his first plot of land in Monforte.  His son Maurizio purchased vineyards in Monprivato in 1904 that remain the core of the family’s holdings. 

After having spent many years working at the estate with his father, Giuseppe II, Mauro Mascarello made his first wines in 1967.  In 1970 Mauro began to vinify the grapes from his various vineyards separately.  Although Mascarello defines the decade between 1968 and 1977 as one in which he experimented with various vinification techniques, today the wines are made in a very traditional manner.  “There aren’t many of us traditionalists left,” jokes Mascarello.  Mauro has recently been joined in the winery by his son Giuseppe, ensuring that this estate’s heritage will continue into the future.

The Monprivato vineyard, located in Castiglione Falletto, is one of the great monopole sites in Piedmont.  The Mascarello family has owned their parcels, which measure just over six hectares, for over 100 years.  Within Monprivato there had always been a special parcel from which Mascarello hoped to produce a riserva.  In the mid-1980s Mascarello began a quest that would take him over four years to identify the best and most suitable clones of the Michet varietal to plant in the vineyard.  The parcel was finally re-planted in 1988 and Mascarello named the new wine Ca’ d’Morissio (house of Maurizio) in honor of his grandfather. 

Both wines are traditionally made and see a long fermentation lasting between 18-25 days, depending on the vintage, and extended aging in Slavonian oak casks of about 36 months for the Monprivato and at least an additional 12 months for the Ca’ d’Morissio.

The first vintage for Ca’ d’Morissio was 1993, although just a few bottles were made, while full production began in 1995.  Mascarello releases this wine only when he believes there is a noticeable difference in quality between Monprivato and Ca’ d’Morissio.  Other recent vintages include 1997 and the as yet unreleased 1996.  There is no Ca’ d’Morissio for vintages 1998-2000, although there is a 2001. 

Barolo Monprivato 1970-1999