Barbaresco – Out of the Shadows: The 2016s & 2015s

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | OCTOBER 19, 2018

I came away from my late summer tastings of Barbarescos deeply impressed. The region, which has so often appeared sleepy and backward, especially compared to Barolo, seems to be going through a brilliant phase. Reference-point estates are upping their game, while a number of ambitious, young winemakers are making significant improvements in quality. The 2016s, wines from a potentially historic vintage, may very well put Barbaresco on the map big time. As I traveled from producer to producer, I experienced that sense of excitement and energy I always feel when in the presence of important vintages and wines.

The Sottimano family, Elena, Rino, Andrea and Anna on the terrace of their home in Neive

I first visited Barbaresco in 1997. Like many observers, I often felt Barbaresco was underachieving the potential of its vineyard sites, many of which rank among the finest in the world. Fast-forward to 2018 and things are very different. Andrea Sottimano, Claudia and Silvia Cigliuti, Luca Roagna, Francesco Rocca, Danilo Nada, the Gaja siblings and so many others are bringing a much needed dose of youthful ambition and fresh perspectives to their family estates, and that is very much coming through in the wines. This report focuses mostly on the 2016s and 2015s, with smattering of current releases from recent vintages.

Luca Roagna’s range of 2013s is positively stellar