Eight Decades of Cappellano Barolo: 1935-2011

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MAY 30, 2017

Cappellano's Barolos represent the very best of the artisan tradition in Piedmont. This recent retrospective back to 1935 was truly unforgettable. Tiny production and insatiable demand makes large-scale Cappellano verticals exceedingly rare. When all was said and done, we tasted a number of extraordinary, deeply moving wines, including several reference points as well as most of the modern-day classics that have emerged from these cellars recently.

Collector Ed Zimmerman, musician Chris Thile and Mannie Berk of the Rare Wine Co. organized the tasting dinner with meticulous attention to detail. Most of the attendees, a who’s who of sommeliers, wine writers and collectors, contributed wines from their own cellars to form what was a truly stellar lineup. This was the second fabulous dinner I have had in Eleven Madison Park’s private dining room recently. For whatever reason or reasons, I have consistently had better meals here as a guest than when we have hosted events in this same space.

Augusto Cappellano in his small cellar, Serralunga d’Alba

Cappellano Past and Present

Baldo Cappellano answered the door the first time I rang the bell at this tiny estate in Serralunga many years ago. The gentle giant of Barolo, Cappellano was a man of firmly held convictions who spoke with poetry and understated passion rather than volume. Today, Baldo’s son, Augusto Cappellano, runs the estate following the same general aesthetic steeped in tradition that has defined these wines for decades. Augusto Cappellano has ushered in some small refinements, such as bottling his Barolo with one year less in cask than his father favored, a decision taken to counter the effects of climate change, and replaced some of the older botti in the cellar. Otherwise, things don’t feel like they have changed all that much here over the years.

For most of its history, Cappellano’s reputation was inextricably linked with Barolo Chinato, the medicinal tonic made from Barolo wine steeped with tree bark and herbs that Baldo Cappellano’s great uncle, Giuseppe, invented in the late 1800s. When I first started visiting Baldo Cappellano back in the early days of Piedmont Report, the Barolos were completely unknown to all but a few hardcore Piedmont devotees and easy to find. I still remember receiving calls and emails of gratitude after I published my first reviews of these wines from a handful of Barolo fans. There was literally nothing out there on these wines.

When I moved to New York City after graduate school, in 2005, I was shocked to see the Cappellano Barolos languish in the market. I bought the 1994s, 1995s and 1996s at Chambers Street Wines on close out for less than $30 a bottle. That is not a typo. Amazingly, those wines were around at the same prices for quite some time. Fast forward to today. Cappellano's Barolos fly off the shelves, even in nearby Alba, usually allocated to one bottle per customer, or are drunk with rabid passion in Piedmont’s restaurants as soon as they appear. Times have certainly changed. For more historical background, including a discussion of the two Barolos Cappellano makes today, readers might want to revisit my article Cappellano: The 2010 Barolos, published in 2015.

The Tasting

The wines were organized in a series of mostly thematic flights. As Cappellano fans know, 1990 is the vintage in which Teobaldo Cappellano transitioned from working with purchased fruit to estate fruit from the Gabutti vineyard in Serralunga. Unfortunately, Cappellano did not keep accurate records, especially with regards to fruit sources used during the time when the Barolos were made from purchased grapes. Cappellano is hardly alone in this regard. Even so, some important gaps remain in trying to gain a complete picture of the wines from before 1990. It is easy to forget that Barolo has only become a highly coveted wine within the last twenty years or so. In the 1950s, a hectare of Nebbiolo for Barolo could be had for the same price as a hectare of Dolcetto!

Flight 1: Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris-Nebioli 2011, 2010 & 2007; Barolo Piè Franco-Michet 2011, 2010 & 2007

The first flight is served ahead of dinner as more technical tasting of younger wines. The surprise vintage in this first flight is 2007. The 2011s and 2010s show more or less as I expect them to, but the 2007s are remarkably fresh and tannic. Both 2007s are tremendous in this grouping.

The 2011 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris-Nebioli is dark, sensual and open-knit. Hints of spice, leather, menthol and dried cherry open up nicely in the glass. A slightly roasted quality is evident. Even so, the 2011 is sensual and deeply layered throughout. My preference would be to drink it on the earlier side, within the context of Cappellano, which is to say between the ages of 15 and 30. A powerful, explosive wine, the 2010 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris-Nebioli captures all the pedigree of this great vintage. Huge tannins give the wine its distinctive, super-classic feel. Readers will have to be patient with the 2010, as it will need many years to be at its best. This is a terrific example of the vintage. Cappellano’s 2007 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris-Nebioli is a real head-turner. Gloriously ripe and opulent, the 2007 fleshes out beautifully in the glass, with ample fruit to match its broad, sweeping personality. Simply put, the 2007 Rupestris embodies all the best qualities of the year. I imagine the 2007 will reward readers with many years of fine drinking. Today, it is exceptional.

The more ethereal side of the vintage comes through in the 2011 Barolo Piè Franco-Michet. Silky, lifted and gracious, the 2011 Franco is a wine of aromatic intensity and grace. It also appears to have handled the rigors of the dry, early-ripening growing season more successfully than the Rupestris. The 2010 Barolo Piè Franco-Michet is just as impressive as it always has been. A powerful, austere Barolo, the 2010 exudes classicism in all of its elements. It is also an especially virile wine at this early stage. In a word: magnificent. Readers should not plan on opening the 2010 anytime soon. Still, it is always a privilege to get a glimpse of this epic wine in its adolescence. Ample, deep and exquisitely layered, the 2007 Barolo Piè Franco-Michet is the most showy of the six wines in this first flight. The natural richness of the vintage is tempered by a classic expression of structure. An exotic mélange of dark cherry, plum, smoke and licorice build into the huge, explosive finish. What a wine! As good – not great – as the 2007 is, it is also nowhere near being ready to drink.

Roasted Hen of the Woods Mushroom; Barley Risotto

Flight 2: Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Franco-Michet 2009–1995

Roasted Hen of the Woods Mushroom; Barley Risotto

This next flight encompasses six vintages of the flagship Barolo Piè Franco-Michet.

The 2009 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Franco-Michet is pliant, supple and inviting, with no hard edges and plenty of immediate appeal. The sweet dark cherry, tobacco, plum and spice flavors are nicely pushed forward. I imagine the 2009 will mature earlier than some of the other surrounding vintages, but I am nevertheless encouraged by this strong showing. I have not had the best of luck with the 2006 vintage at Cappellano. Several recent bottles suggest the wines are evolving quickly. That is also the case here, where the 2006 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Franco-Michet does not seem to have the depth, intensity or overall pedigree of the best years. A recent bottle of 2006 Barolo Rupestris (in another tasting) was similarly uninspiring. Once again, the 2005 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Franco-Michet is superb. Powerful, dense and explosive, the 2005 is just beginning to show the first notes of tertiary aromatic complexity. Ample and deep, with tannins to burn, the 2005 is likely to provide those lucky enough to own it many years of superb drinking. This is a great showing from one of the finer wines in a vintage that continues to grow.

Not surprisingly, the 2003 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Franco-Michet comes across as a bit roasted and also slightly alcoholic, both signatures of the very hot year. Dark cherry, smoke, leather, licorice, tobacco and smoke add nuance throughout. The 2003 is a good choice for drinking over the near and medium term, but it does not have the pedigree of the very best years. What a pleasant surprise to taste the 1998 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Franco-Michet after all these years. I think I still have a case of this in one of my cellars. Silky, feminine and gracious, the 1998 has aged impeccably. Sweet red cherry, smoke and pipe tobacco are some of the many notes that grace this super-expressive, mid-weight Barolo. Readers looking for an under the radar gem in Cappellano Barolo will find it in the 1998. The 1995 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Franco-Michet is another very pretty wine. The fruit is a bit dried out and the 1995 does not have the depth or complexity of some of the other wines in this flight, but it has aged evenly and well, which is saying a lot for this vintage. Scents of dried cherry, licorice, leather and dried herbs open up nicely in the glass. The firm tannins – a 1995 signature – are likely to always remain. I would prefer to drink the 1995 sooner rather than later, as the fruit will almost certainly continue to dry out.

Seared Chicken with Brussel Sprouts and Meyer Lemon

Flight 3: 2008 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris-Nebioli, 2004 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris-Nebioli, 1990 Barolo Otin Fiorin Collina Gabutti, 1990 Barolo, 1989 Barolo

Seared Chicken with Brussel Sprouts and Meyer Lemon

This flight doesn’t have a specific theme, but the wines are outrageously beautiful.

One of the wines of the night, the 2008 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris-Nebioli is dazzling. All of the best qualities of this great Barolo vintage come through in the Barolo Rupestris. A wine of precision and crystalline, weightless beauty, the 2008 will leave readers weak at the knees. It is a wine to own, cellar and savor for the next thirty years. The translucency and vibrancy of the fruit is pure 2008. The 2004 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris-Nebioli is nearly as compelling as the 2008. Layered and totally sensual from the outset, the 2004 is a terrific example of the year. Perfumed aromatics meld into sweet red cherry, tobacco, licorice and spice. Firm tannins give the Rupestris a bit more austerity than is common in this vintage, but that also ensures the wine will drink well for years to come. So many 2004s are accessible, but the Rupestris is a Barolo I would choose to cellar for at least a few years. I have had some variability with Cappellano’s 2004s. This is an especially fine bottle.

Cappellano’s 1990 Barolo Otin Fiorin Collina Gabutti is a total turn-on. There is nothing much left to say. Rich, sumptuous and hedonistic in every way, the 1990 possesses magnificent depth and intensity from start to finish. The 1990 is spectacularly ripe, exotic and opulent, with huge fruit and extraordinary balance to keep things in check. I was delighted to share these bottles from my cellar with the group. What. A. Wine! The 1990 Barolo is magnificent. Next to the Otin Fiorin, the Barolo is just a bit less sweet and more overtly tannic, but both wines are immensely delicious. Beams of tannin punctuate the finish in this exceptionally beautiful, riveting Barolo. The straight 1990 Barolo was made from purchased fruit, while the Otin Fiorn was made from Cappellano’s estate Gabutti vineyard.

Another wine from my cellar, Cappellano’s 1989 Barolo is stunningly beautiful. Sweet and intensely aromatic, the 1989 captures all the pedigree of this reference point vintage. Violet, lavender, mint and dark spice give the 1989 its distinctive, sensual personality. There is a sweetness and intensity to the 1989 that is hard to describe with words. Long and persistent on the palate, with exquisite finesse, the 1989 is simply haunting in its beauty. It remains one of my all-time favorite Cappellano Barolos. Put simply, the 1989 is what Barolo is all about. I confess that I probably had more than my fair share of the 1989 during dinner.

Roasted Beef With Celery Root and Bone Marrow

Flight 4: 1955, 1958, 1961, 1978 Barolo; 1935 Super Barolo

Roasted Beef With Celery Root and Bone Marrow

This flight of older wines shows how importance provenance is. The 1978 Barolo, which I purchased from the domaine, is simply magical, while the 1935 Super Barolo is a real treat to taste. Sadly, the 1955 Barolo shows traces of poor storage in its cloudy, impure color and excessively dried out fruit. Similarly, the 1958 Barolo is completely oxidized. The best of these first three wines, the 1961 Barolo is in reasonably good shape for a wine of its age. Scents of dried cherry, orange peel and rose petal flavors add shades of nuance.

Conversation stops once the 1978 Barolo is served. Almost impossibly deep in tonality and massively endowed, the 1978 shows why this is such a historic vintage in Piedmont. The late-ripening season produced powerful, towering Barolos that, if well stored, remain almost shockingly young. A host of dark, spice and balsamic-infused notes open up as this extraordinarily beautiful Barolo shows off its alluring personality. In my book, this is as good as wine gets. It’s as simple as that.

Cappellano’s 1935 Super Barolo is a treat to taste and drink. That much is obvious. Unfortunately, important gaps in historical records make it impossible to know what exactly the Super Barolo was. The passage of time between when it was made and the present adds to the mystery, as there is no way to know what the Super Barolo tasted like as a young wine. To be sure, there is a level of sweetness and density that suggests perhaps the Super Barolo was a fortified wine, or was made with the addition of some other wine and/or spirit. Delicate and silky, but with a palpable sense of sweetness in the mid-palate, the 1935 is absolutely beautiful. Whatever the Super Barolo is, it is exquisite.

Flight 5: 1964 Barolo (Troglia), 1967, 1970, 1971 Barolo

Hobelkaese With Fresh Chestnuts

Sadly, none of the wines in this last flight are perfectly intact. The 1964 Barolo, which was bottled and sold by Torino merchant Troglia, is fully oxidized. Unfortunately, the same is true of the 1967 Barolo. Both can only be described as putrid. The 1970 Barolo is subtle, delicate and fully resolved. Hints of dried cherry, tobacco, cranberry, orange peel and spice give the wine gentle layers of nuance. All things considered, the 1970 is attractive, but most wines from this vintage, if well stored, offer quite a bit more depth. I have had far better bottles of Cappellano’s 1971 Barolo. In fact, a good bottle of the 1971 is a life changing experience. This bottle is far from that. The elevated ripeness and sweetness that are signatures of the vintage are nevertheless evident.

I finished the evening by indulging in the 1989, both bottles of the 1990 and the 1978. Many of the younger wines were terrific, but the 1989 and 1990 were in the sweet spot of where I personally find the most pleasure in wine Then there is the 1978, which is an eternal Barolo whose life will be ultimately decided by the soundness of corks rather than by the wine itself!

See All the Wines in the Order Tasted

I would like to thank Ed and Betsy Zimmerman, Chris Thile, Mannie Berk and everyone else who contributed wines to this very special and truly unforgettable tasting. Eleven Madison Park's Wine Director Cedric Nicaise and guest sommelier Levi Dalton lavished these bottles with all the love they deserved.

Note: Reviews in the database are presented without scores. Many years ago, Baldo Cappellano asked me to refrain from publishing scores, which he viewed as potentially divisive among growers. Back then, Piedmont Report had around 1,000 subscribers and Cappellano’s wines were unknown except to a small group of hardcore Barolo fans, so the decision to not publish scores did not seem significant. The lack of numerical ratings doesn’t seem to have stopped these wines from becoming virtually impossible to find.

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