Friuli – Parallel Universes
Friuli is home to some of the most spectacular hillside vineyards in all of Europe. While the best Friulian wines are stunning, the full potential of these sites remains largely untapped.
Friuli is one of the most extraordinary viticultural regions in the world. The snaking, hillside vineyards that are the backbone of the Collio and form the border with Slovenia are home to a number of fabulous terroirs. These sites are also drenched in history, for it is here that many battles were fought during World War I. But Friuli is so much more than just the Collio. Isonzo, the Colli Orientali and the Carso are each capable of producing highly distinctive, world-class wines. In the Grave we tend to find much more commercial offerings, but there is a place for them too – when they are well made.
Fall colors in Capriva
Beyond just its oenological riches, Friuli is steeped in history and culture. The region is full of influences from neighboring Austria and Slovenia, which border Friuli to the north and east respectively. Udine is a gorgeous mid-size town with a vibrant university scene. Trieste, a bustling seaside city and a vibrant center of commerce, is home to Generali, Italy’s largest insurer. Monfalcone is famous for its shipbuilding facilities. Influences from the Venetian Empire can be seen in the small winding streets and piazzas of Grado, a small, quaint, seaside fishing village. The local cuisine is replete with a fabulous repertoire of distinct local dishes that draw from both the region’s Austro-Hungarian roots and the bounty of the nearby Adriatic.
Fritto misto, a Friulian classic that pairs beautifully with the local wines
In other words, most wine producing regions in the world would kill to have this much raw potential. The question, therefore, is; Why are Friulian wines so often totally unimpressive? To be sure, the current state of economic affairs in Italy is dismal, to put it kindly, so it is understandable on some level that growers are fearful of making investments in the future, but the issues are much deeper than just the economy. The Friulians are rightly well known for their work ethic and ability to persevere through tough times. My fear is that much of that energy is misplaced in today’s world. As someone who has the privilege of tasting in the finest cellars in Burgundy, California and Italy, I am convinced the best Friulian wines are world-class. There just aren’t enough of them.
The sad truth is that most Friulian wines are uninspired, easy going offerings that trade off the value of the region and its most famous appellation, the Collio. That landscape is brightened by a handful or two of small, artisan growers who in this context appear to be living on another planet entirely. Their wines embody the values of great wine everywhere; namely a maniacal attention in the vineyards and an uncompromising approach to overall quality that transcends stylistic and philosophical choices. These are the growers who are featured here.
