Accornero Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese Bricco del Bosco Vigne Vecchie 2006-2015
BY IAN D'AGATA |
Grignolino is one of Italy’s most underrated varieties, and so are its wines. The grape and its wines were historically famous and exceptionally popular as they were much sought-after in Italy as recently as the late 1970s. Soon thereafter Grignolino fell on hard times, when practically black, high-pH, overripe and obviously sweet red wines became, the desired norm. Happily, most fads are short-lived, and when people began to realize that sweet, high-alcohol and generally overripe reds made for very poor company at the dining table, it was time for light and medium-bodied wines to have their turn in the sun once again.
The entrance to the Accornero estate
Grignolino is characterized by dark pink to pale red hues (often with orangey tinges), high tannins, bright acids and mostly floral aromas and flavors with little in the way of obvious fleshy fruit. In fact, such lighter-styled wines (or the best examples, at least) offer brilliantly balanced drinking experiences that are remarkably complex, food-friendly and ageworthy. Grignolino is the poster child of a specific group of “less is more” grapes, a point underscored by what is arguably Italy’s best Grignolino, Accornero’s Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese Bricco del Bosco Vigne Vecchie.
Accornero's Grignolino vineyards
Understanding the Grignolino Grape Variety and Its Wines