Sardinia: Winemaking in the Extreme

BY ERIC GUIDO | NOVEMBER 30, 2023

Tasting through the new releases from Sardinia is always exciting, as each portfolio boasts a mix of varieties and styles that contrast and complement each other. However, winemaking here has its challenges, much of that because of arid conditions and extreme warmth that created the sun-kissed style that sets Sardinia apart. Italian by definition, Sardinia has a rich history heavily influenced by Africa, Spain, France and Italy. As a result, the grape varieties found here are often ancient imports from different nations that have thrived on the island long enough that locals think of them as indigenous.

Many consider Sardinia a paradise, often called “The Caribbean of the Mediterranean Sea” for its spanning coastlines and clear, pristine waters. This is one of the top vacation spots for most Italians on holiday. However, there’s much more beyond the coast, with extreme climatic differences from north to south. Sandy beaches give way to a mountainous interior, then flat plains and, once again, rocky shores. While the island's north is heavily affected by the cold Mistral winds blowing down from France, the warm African Scirocco marks the southern landscape. As for elevations, Sardinia has those too. In fact, within the mountain ranges, volcanic cones and jagged granite outcroppings overshadow valleys that resemble desert wastelands. The island covers 9,300 square miles and, at its closest point, is 125 miles from Mainland Italy. This, combined with the fact that most Sardinians speak a dialect, means that a visitor to the island might be surprised that it is indeed part of Italy. 

An ungrafted, 80-year-old Carignano vine in Santadi's sandy vineyards.

The cuisine would likely amaze most visitors as well. Sardinia gets a lot of publicity for being one of the world's blue zones, with the average life expectancy of its people being 83 years old. They also have one of the highest populations of centennials, people living 100 and older. When visiting the region, seeing the number of older yet still physically active people can shock tourists. However, the Sardinian diet is very different than most people realize. It’s not on the current trend toward plant-based diets. The culture relies significantly on mountain cuisine and shepherd’s fare. The number of grains, dairy in the form of the most eclectic cheeses imaginable (some of which are illegal to transport off the island), vegetables and, of course, wine, is high. Still, nearly all Sardinians love cured pork, which many families produce and consume daily. They are also lovers of lamb and typically make a weekly event of bringing the entire family together for a spit-roasted lamb on Sundays. When considering this, it is easier to understand the big, burly red wines that the region is famous for, as well as the richness and intensity of their Vermentino.

What’s in a Name?

If only understanding the grape varieties of Sardinia was as easy as a difference in pronunciation. The grapes found throughout the island are often referred to as indigenous. However, the majority of them were imported over the course of millennia, primarily from the Iberian Peninsula. 

The most well-known red is Cannonau, a biotype of Garnacha or Grenache, also referred to as Alicante on the Tuscan coast. The Cannonau di Sardinia DOC allows producers to grow the variety across the entire island. However, this creates a large amount of variability and often results in Cannonau that is blousy, with high-test alcohol percentages reaching from 16.5 to 17%. Granted, Grenache (or Cannonau) has this problem around much of the world, but it is running rampant in Sardinia. There are exceptions, many of which are highlighted in the notes in this report. Looking to the higher elevations can help. There are weathered granite soils in the Barbagia hills, north and east of the Gennargentu Mountains near Nuoro. While the days are sweltering, the diurnal shifts at night bring much cooler temperatures and balance. I was happily surprised to find a few examples of Cannonau that finished at 13.5 - 14% abv and reminded me a bit of a high-elevation Spanish Garnacha from Gredos.