Germany: Ten Years After – 2004 Dry Riesling

In Germany, the annual tasting covered here is better known as the Bernhard Breuer Trophy, in memory of the visionary winemaker from Rüdesheim who brought dry and off-dry, back to critical attention in the early 1980s. While I had already been organizing this event for several years beforehand as a “Ten Years After” tasting to assess how the dry Rieslings from the previous decade were developing, I changed the name to honor one of Germany’s major wine personalities, who died unexpectedly at the age of only 57 on May 19, 2004.

I had long been looking forward to opening a serious collection of 2004s, as it was a vintage that I have always enjoyed. And I was anything but disappointed. More so than even in 2002, 2001 or 1998, this tasting proved that Riesling must be counted among the great dry wines of the world. Further, at a time when few of these wines are given the chance to age, the tasting showed how well they mature in bottle. Yes, as with Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, most producers here still make Rieslings that are intended to be little more than charming in their youth, but the concept of Grosses Gewächs (Grand Cru) has given others the confidence to bottle wines meant to be laid down. Of course, many of these wines were still known as Riesling Spätlese Trocken Grosses Gewächs at that time, but I have left out the Riesling Spätlese Trocken in the descriptions below, preferring to use the nomenclature that is standard today.

After the overblown 2003s, most producers were happy a decade ago with the lively fruit and invigorating acidity that were the backbone of the dry 2004 Rieslings in their youth. Yields were generally high, though, and only those estates that kept production in check and harvested late were able to obtain full physiological maturity. The resulting wines were perhaps not as consistently good across the board, but at their best they were certainly better than the 2003s and, as this tasting showed, capable of maturing with dignity.

All of the wines I tasted came from the respective estates’ own stocks. Although some—and in particular those from the Rheingau—have lost a touch of their youthful exuberance, perhaps in some cases due to poor storage, I rated quite a number of the others higher than I had a decade ago, at the time of their release. That does not happen often. Any consumer who had written off this vintage should rethink his or her options. I would like to have more of them in my cellar.

The barrel room at Weingut Wittmann

2004 Breuer Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling (Rheingau): Lively aromas of apricot, bosc pear and toasted almond. Still firm to the point of austerity, with an exotic peach flavor complemented by rich, salty minerality. While still youthfully closed, this displays superb length and polish. Without doubt the best dry Riesling from the Rheingau in 2004. 92.

2004 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling GC (Pfalz): Fine aromas of white peach and sage, with a smoky earthiness. Glossy, dense apricot pit fruit with sweet herbal inflections animate the palate. Opulent and deep, with a spicy, juicy quality extending the impressively long finish. Another fine effort by this estate. When Bürklin-Wolf fires on all cylinders, few producers can top these wines. 91.

2004 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Forster Kirchenstück Riesling GC (Pfalz): Ethereal, rich aromas of dried apricot, toasted hazelnut, herbs and bacon fat. Profoundly concentrated and unctuous, with deep, fleshy yellow fruit flavors leavened by an exhilarating juiciness. Impeccably balanced, decidedly elegant and formidably long on the aftertaste, this Riesling showed so much better than it had in its youth. It stood head and shoulders above the competition. 96.

2004 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Forster Pechstein Riesling GC (Pfalz): Smoky aromas of peach pit, almond and clove. The ripe, crisp apricot flavor is kept quite firm by the wine's salty, mineral frame. The savory, very long finish brings nut oils into play. Elegant and sophisticated, this is Pechstein at its best. I saw it as almost at the same level of quality as the Kirchenstück ten years ago. But while Pechstein has retained its innate vibrancy and elegance, Kirchenstück has taken on a new dimension. 93.

2004 Christmann Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen Riesling Grosses Gewächs (Pfalz): Lively aromas of white peach and acacia blossom, with a hint of citrus. Offers excellent drive on the palate, showing a vibrant apricot pit flavor and almost chalky acidity. Still a touch austere, this dry Riesling boasts provocative depth and excellent length. Often underrated in its youth, the Hohenmorgen has emerged to show its true potential. 91.

2004 Christmann Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs (Pfalz): Vibrant aromas of apricot, toasted almond and lemon oil. The nicely polished peach flavor and understated minerality are laced with smoky nut oil. Full-bodied yet graceful, this dry Riesling still shows nice length and is aging gracefully. 89.