Rocca di Montegrossi: Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino 1995–2013
BY ANTONIO GALLONI |
From his first vintage in 1995, Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi has crafted powerful, yet elegant wines imbued with real character. This vertical tasting of Rocca di Montegrossi's Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino once again showed the pedigree Sangiovese is capable of in the hands of an inspired grower guided by a desire to make wines that express the essence of site and vintage. I tasted every vintage back to the inaugural 1995, with the exception of the 1997 and 1998, of which there are no remaining stocks at the winery. In their place, Ricasoli opened the 1995 and 1996 Geremia, which provided fascinating contrasts to the San Marcellinos of the same years.
This small church next to the winery is part of the larger San Marcellino church complex
The Ricasoli family’s history is a tapestry laced with numerous strands that speak to the rich cultural legacy that runs through Tuscany and Chianti Classico. Originally of Longobard origins, the Ricasolis trace their lineage back to at least the 7th century, which makes them one of the oldest families in Tuscany. Records show that the Ricasolis owned the Brolio castle as far back as 1141. In the 12th and 13th centuries the Ricasolis were feudal lords tasked with protecting Florence from the Republic of Siena during the Wars of the Guelphs and Ghibellines. The Ricasolis were also among the first families to recognize the potential of their land for agricultural purposes. In more contemporary times, and as it pertains to wine, the Ricasoli history starts in the 19th century. Bettino Ricasoli, known as the Iron Baron, was one of the creators of Chianti wine in the late 1800s and served twice as Prime Minister of Italy.
Our story begins with Bettino Ricasoli's great-grandson (also named Bettino) and his brother, Alberto, along with their four sisters. In the 1960s, this generation of the Ricasoli family sold the “Barone Ricasoli” brand to Seagram’s, but retained ownership of the Castello di Brolio, its vineyards and land. At the time, the family had an arrangement to sell grapes and bulk wine to the Barone Ricasoli label. Later, in 1993, Francesco Ricasoli bought the estate back, but that is a tale for another day, and another article.
Rocca di Montegrossi's estate vineyards in the Monti sub-zone of Gaiole, Chianti Classico
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From his first vintage in 1995, Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi has crafted powerful, yet elegant wines imbued with real character. This vertical tasting of the Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino once again showed the pedigree Sangiovese is capable of in the hands of an inspired grower guided by a desire to make wines that express the essence of site and vintage.
