Epic Dunn: Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 1979-1999
When Vinous readers suggested a Dunn vertical, the only questions were when, where and which wines. This tasting spanning 21 vintages of the flagship Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon going all the way back to the inaugural 1979 was remarkable for so many reasons. Virtually all of the wines had been purchased from the estate over the years, so provenance was about as perfect as it could have been. Overall, the wines were striking and confirmed Randy Dunn’s place among the top winemakers in Napa Valley.
Getting the glasses ready
Our small, intimate tasting was held at Bar Boulud in New York City. The entire team at Bar Boulud, including Daniel Boulud, Executive Chef Olivier Quignon and Head Sommelier Michael Madrigale did a fabulous job. Quignon prepared a tasting menu full of highlights, including the squid ink pasta with garlic housemade rosemary-orange lardo and trout roe, which was out of this world, and the stuffed quail with squash risotto. All of the wines were stored upright for several days before the tasting. The wines were opened several hours in advance and double decanted prior to service to remove sediment. I tasted all the wines twice; once upon opening, and a second time during dinner. Watch as Michael Madrigale and I discuss the dinner in this short video.
Bar Boulud’s squid ink pasta with garlic housemade rosemary-orange lardo and trout roe
Randy Dunn is one of Napa Valley’s most iconic producers. Over the years and decades Dunn has remained faithful to what he views a classic style of Cabernet Sauvignon. Although in many ways quite introverted and reclusive, Dunn hasn’t been shy in his critiquing wines that he feels are overdone, which hasn’t exactly won him a ton of friends in some circles. The great irony is that as many of today’s generation of young winemakers seek to rediscover the roots of Napa Valley, Dunn’s wines, along with those of a handful of producers – including Forman, Togni, Inglenook and Diamond Creek among others – have never been more popular.
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This tasting spanning 21 vintages of Randy Dunn's flagship Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain going all the way back to the inaugural 1979 was remarkable for so many reasons.
