Six Decades of Mayacamas Cabernet
Sauvignon: 1967-2012

For six decades Bob Travers made some of the most compelling, age worthy and profound Napa Valley wines&nbsp;at Mayacamas. These magnificent Cabernet Sauvignons capture an artisan spirit&nbsp;from a long-gone era in Napa Valley&nbsp;that is only now being rediscovered and fully appreciated for what it is: one of the richest legacies in Napa Valley, the United States and the world.&nbsp;The early Mayacamas Cabernets were made from a combination of estate fruit and grapes purchased from nearby ranches, which was not unusual at the time. Travers aged is Cabernets for&nbsp;about three years in barrel, long by Napa Valley standards and a regime he stuck with until the end. Travers bottled cask by cask over periods of time, which is why there is a level of bottle variation with Mayacamas Cabernets. A handful of recent tastings provided a great opportunity to get a look at how a number of the reference-point vintages are holding up today. At their best, the Mayacamas Cabernets are spellbinding wines that will thrill those lucky enough to find them for several decades.&nbsp; One of the most iconic&nbsp;estates of Napa Valley, Mayacamas boasts a rich legacy that goes all the way back to the 1890s. The property's modern-day history begins in 1941&nbsp;when the Taylor family resurrected a rugged hillside estate in the Mayacamas mountains, on what is now more commonly known as&nbsp;Mount Veeder, and started making and bottling their own wines. In 1968, the Taylors sold Mayacamas to&nbsp;Bob Travers and his wife,
Elinor. A Stanford-educated petroleum engineer, Travers caught the wine bug in the late 1950s. That passion intensified in the following years, leading Travers to enroll at the University of California, where he took a number of courses in wine.&nbsp;One harvest with Joe
Heitz in 1967 convinced Travers to buy his own&nbsp;piece of land. Mayacamas first gained
global attention when the 1971 Cabernet Sauvignon was included in the famous
‘Judgement of Paris’ tasting in 1976, the first time American wines proved they could stand next to the established benchmarks of France.&nbsp; In May of
2013, Charles Banks and his wife, Ali, partnered with the Schottenstein family to buy&nbsp;Mayacamas. Banks had attempted several
times to purchase Mayacamas, but it took him a number of years to put together
the right team to get the deal done. Unlike other Napa Valley properties that
have sold recently such as Sloan and Araujo, Mayacamas needs work. A lot of work. Over the years and decades, the vineyards have fallen into a state of neglect, which means
the entire 58 acres of vines&nbsp;will need to be replanted over the next 5-7 years, something only a long-term investor can even contemplate, much less execute. Restoring Mayacamas is truly a labor of love, as the results of the work being done today will not be fully realized until a generation from now. Money is often viewed as the most important asset in business. But a lot of people have money. And money can be earned or borrowed,&nbsp;just as it can be lost. Then there is time. Time is something entirely different. Time can't be earned or borrowed. That is why it is the most important asset in running a successful&nbsp;business. Banks has time on his side, which makes him the ideal investor to lead Mayacamas through this transition and into the future.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1402499647552-MayacamasVinesTornOut.jpg">Old, diseased vines right after having been ripped out

Banks
created quite a stir when he brought Andy Erickson in to be the winemaker.
Erickson has been behind a number of high-profile wines in recent years, none
as iconic as Screaming Eagle. A view began to form that perhaps Erickson would
try to totally modernize Mayacamas. Personally, I doubt that is going to
happen. Erickson is one of the most thoughtful winemakers in Napa Valley. The
more likely, and frankly interesting question is to what extent is Mayacamas going to&nbsp;influence Erickson’s work going forward. Erickson is no longer at Screaming
Eagle, but he is heavily involved at a number of estates in the valley,
including Dalla Valle, Ovid, Arietta and his own labels Favia and Leviathan. One change with the 2013 harvest is the arrival&nbsp;of a new sorting table, hardly radical but an addition nonetheless. Annie Favia, Erickson's wife,&nbsp;and Phil Coturri are overseeing vineyard management. I don’t know a single viticulturist who has more of an innate connection with the hillsides of Napa Valley and Sonoma than Phil Coturri. If anyone can coax this site back to health, he can.I visited Mayacamas last September just as large chunks of vines were being torn out. One of the things I was most struck by was how remote and rugged the&nbsp;sprawling property is. It is not easy to get around Mayacamas. Frankly, it is virtually impossible to imagine what conditions must have been like here in the 1960s. Because of the very early harvest, some of the wines in tank were already nearly dry. The lots I tasted from tank were dark, intense and highly intriguing. Needless to say, it is going to be fascinating to watch the next chapter of Mayacamas's history unfold over the coming years and decades. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1402501033521-MayacamsAndyErickson+-+cropped.jpg"> Current Winemaker Andy Erickson

<a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/wines?wine_filter%5Barticle_id%5D=434&amp;wine_filter%5Bproducer_id%5D=2748&amp;producer=true">Show all the Wines</a> The 1967 Cabernet Sauvignon was still in barrel when Bob Travers bought
the property in 1968. With time in the glass the 1967 opens up beautifully,
releasing some of the aromas that are a bit reticent at first. Tar, black
cherries, smoke, licorice and incense are all highly expressive. A dark,
powerful, brooding wine, the 1967 Cabernet Sauvignon impresses for its pure
depth, power and intensity. For a wine of its age the 1967 possesses stunning
mid-palate depth and tons of richness. What a treat it is to taste this
historic, iconic Cabernet from Mayacamas. The 1967 will drink well for a number
of years, although the likelihood of equaling the level of provenance of this
bottle, which comes from the estate's library, is frankly quite slim. 92/Drinking window: 2014 -2017. Crushed
flowers, dried herbs, tobacco, cedar and spices lift from the glass in the 1968 Cabernet Sauvignon, the first wine
Bob Travers made from start to finish at Mayacamas. The 1968 is fully mature
but also incredibly nuanced and beautiful. I imagine that in a blind tasting,
the 1968 could easily be mistaken for a Bordeaux First Growth. What a treat it
is to taste the 1968 today.&nbsp;94/Drinking window: 2014. One of the most
iconic wines made at the property, the 1973
Cabernet Sauvignon boasts a level of pure intensity and structure, along
with plenty of distinct St. Estèphe-inflected nuances. Hints of cedar, tobacco
and scorched earth meld into a core of deep, dense, dark fruit as the 1973
shows off its utterly captivating personality. The 1973 is one of those wines
that takes hold of all the sense and never lets up. In a word: profound. 96/Drinking window: 2014-2023. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1402499696240-Mayacamas1973.jpg"> The
1973 Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the many great wines that were made here
during the 1970s, a Golden Age for Mayacamas

Mint, sage, tobacco and underbrush
add complexity to the 1974, another
dark, powerful Cabernet Sauvignon
from Mayacamas. The aromatics are a bit more forward than the palate, with
slightly oxidative notes that become more prominent over time. There is plenty
of depth in the glass, though, so I can see the 1974 remaining at a plateau of
maturity for some time. My preference would be to drink any remaining bottles
sooner rather than later. Firm, coarse tannins would seem to place 1974 among
the more rustic vintages here, although I have had much better bottles than
this. Readers should consult the Vinous database for more representative
examples. 89/Drinking window: 2014. Two bottles of the 1975
Cabernet Sauvignon, aren't totally clean. Unfocused aromatics mar
what is otherwise a deep, fleshy wine with good freshness and plenty of depth.

Sweet floral and spice notes add an
attractive element of perfume and lift to the 1976 Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasted after the 1978, the 1976 presents
similar density, but with a bit more aromatic complexity and slightly less
overall power. The fruit is also distinctly red-toned, with suggestions of
plum, smoke, tobacco and cloves that flesh out on the soft, resonant finish.
What a gorgeous wine this is. 96/Drinking window: 2014-2024. The 1977 Cabernet Sauvignon emerges from the glass with dark red
cherries, plums, smoke, tobacco, licorice and incense. This is another
powerful, epic wine with plenty of life ahead of it. Mint, crushed flowers and
licorice linger on an intense, layered finish supported by huge, massive
tannin. Floral notes add an element of lift, but the 1977 remains quite dark
and brooding in style. 94/Drinking
window: 2014-2027. The 1978 Cabernet
Sauvignon is quite simply one of the greatest Napa Valley wines I have ever
tasted. Dark, powerful and explosive, the 1978 captivates all the senses with
intense dark fruit, tobacco, smoke, cedar and licorice. Utterly mesmerizing
from the very first taste, the 1978 shows no signs of fading. The firm tannins
ensure another decade-plus of magical drinking. Readers fortunate enough to own
well-stored bottles are in for an extraordinary drinking experience on a par
with any wine from anywhere in the world. It's as simple as that. The 1978
remains a testament to the genius of Bob Travers and this rugged hillside site
on Mt. Veeder. Here, too, provenance is everything.&nbsp;100/Drinking window:
2014-2024.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1402499742368-MayacamsVineyards.jpg"> Wide vine spacing and rugged mountain viticulture are signatures of the original plantings

The personality of the cool vintage
comes through in spades in the 1981
Cabernet Sauvignon. Although texturally quite polished and impeccable in
its balance, the 1981 remains a bit compact and linear in style. In any other
setting, it would probably be magnificent but here, next to so many icons, the
1981 remains only outstanding. 92/Drinking
window: 2014-2021. The 1986 Cabernet
Sauvignon is a great example of the magic that can develop in a great wine
over time. Miraculously timeless, the 1986 shows just how beautiful wines from
this hillside property are. Sweet herbs, dried flowers, red stone fruits and
tobacco linger on the translucent, weightless finish. The 1986 turns soft,
delicate and a touch fleeting over time, but it is still quite pretty and an
excellent choice for drinking over the next decade or so. Today, the 1986 is a
real stunner. 92/Drinking window:
2014-2026. The 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon
impresses for its persistence and exceptional balance. A focused, brilliant
wine, the 1987 is floral, perfumed and quite pretty. Compared to some of the
other wines in this tasting the 1987 comes across as a bit compact and not
fully expressive, which is amazing for a wine of its age. Dark stone fruits,
flowers and spices linger on the close. 95/Drinking
window: 2015-2022.

I have decided to include two notes
on the 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon. Both
wines are sourced&nbsp;from the estate's library, so provenance is impeccable. The first
bottle is round, supple and totally sexy from the very first taste. Sweet,
perfumed and quite sexy, the 1989 is wonderfully fragrant and expressive. The
blend includes dollops of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. 95/Drinking window:
2014-2029. A big, rustic wine, the 1989
Cabernet Sauvignon&nbsp;(bottle #2)&nbsp;hits the palate with masses of dark stone fruits, smoke
and spice. The 1989 is intense, carnal and direct, but it doesn't have the
complexity or nuance of the better years. In this tasting, it suffers a bit in
comparison with some of the more well rounded&nbsp;vintages, but it is compelling if
taken on its own.&nbsp;92/Drinking window: 2014-2029.

The 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon shows good depth, but it is quite supple
and also forward, especially in its aromas. In this context, the 1992 is a rare
underachiever. 88/Drinking window:
2014. A totally seamless, impeccable wine, the 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon is all about grace. Sweet red cherries, anise,
dried flowers, mint, spices and crushed rocks abound in a beautifully
expressive Cabernet Sauvignon built on pure silk. The 1995 can be enjoyed
today, but it is texturally so well balanced it will drink well for many, many
years. There is a slight element of brett in the 1995 that may bother some
tasters more than others. 94/Drinking
window: 2014-2035.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1402499719947-MayacamstheSevens.jpg"> Tasting all of the vintages ending in ‘7’, fall 2013

The 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon tastes almost like it was made yesterday,
such is its freshness. Pliant, explosive and racy, the 1997 bursts on the
palate with waves of dark red fruit. The flavors remain pretty primary, so
readers who want the full Mayacamas experience will have to give the 1997
further bottle age. That is the bad news. The good news is that the 1997 is a
truly special wine that will thrill readers for the next two-plus decades. 96+/Drinking window: 2017-2037. The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon is a wine for
classicists. Savory, floral and mineral notes abound in a wine with gorgeous
aromatic complexity, but little in the way of typical Napa Valley fruit. Cedar,
smoke, tobacco, sage and leather are some of the many notes that inform the
tense, pointed finish. The style is definitely European-leaning in the 1998, a
wine from one of the most challenging Napa Valley harvests in recent memory. 93/Drinking window: 2014-2028. One of
the more bombastic wines in this lineup, the 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon races across the palate with a rush of pure
fruit and structure. The late harvest produced a rich, viscous Cabernet
Sauvignon endowed with tremendous depth and plenty of raw, visceral energy.
Readers need to be patient here, as the 1999 needs more time in bottle. I
imagine it will always remain exuberant in style. 94+/Drinking window: 2017-2039.

The 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon is another terrific choice for drinking
today. Grilled herbs, cured meat, game, black plum, smoke, sage, rosemary and
leather flesh out in a wine with gorgeous aromatic and flavor complexity. The
rich, demi-glace like texture wraps around the palate all the way through to
the finish. All of the classic, brambly Mayacamas signatures are in place. 93/Drinking window: 2014-2040. The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon offers an
attractive burst of fruit, but then loses most of its persistence on the
mid-palate and finish. Overall, this is a solid effort, but it falls short
within the context of the year and the other wines made around the same time. 88/Drinking window: 2014-2022. Another
wine with plenty of near and medium-term appeal, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon is built on texture and ripeness. Dark red
cherry, plum, smoke, tobacco and spices flesh out in a supple, super-ripe
Cabernet Sauvignon with no hard edges. Here, too, the flavors remain
surprisingly primary. The visceral thrill of the best years is missing, but
there is plenty of appeal today. Dried rose petal, cinnamon and sweet red
berries linger on the close. 92/Drinking
window: 2014-2028.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1402499784063-MayacamasDiseasedVines.jpg"> These diseased vines yield fruit with notable depth, but the plants will soon need to be replacedThe 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon is soft, supple and quite open for a young
Mayacamas wine. I imagine the 2004 will offer a wide window of pure drinking
pleasure over the next few decades. The 2004 doesn’t have the structure of the
most age worthy vintages, but it is in a beautiful place now. Readers who
appreciate more tertiary elements will have to wait a few years, but the 2004
is pretty hard to resist at this stage. 95/Drinking
window: 2014-2034. The 2005 Cabernet
Sauvignon is just now beginning to enter a sweet spot where the aromatics
show signs of complexity while the tannins are softening. Dark red and black
stone fruits tobacco, savory herbs, smoke and new leather are all very much
alive in a striking, nuanced Cabernet Sauvignon loaded with class and
complexity. This is a decidedly dark, virile Cabernet with more than enough
structure to drink well for many, many years. The crystalline, translucent
finish alone is a thing of beauty. 97/Drinking
window: 2017-2040.

Rose petals, savory herbs, leather,
mint and plum notes open up in the 2007
Cabernet Sauvignon. Rich, fleshy and textured, the 2007 captures a gorgeous
balance between the raciness of the vintage and the inherent structure of this
hillside site. The fruit turns darker on the finish as the tannin firms up.
Although the 2007 can be enjoyed today there is little question its best days
lie ahead. This is the best bottle of the 2007 I have had recently. 96/Drinking window: 2017-2037. At this
stage, it's hard to know whether the 2012
Cabernet Sauvignon will be marked more by its intense yet not fully formed
fruit or its huge, powerful tannins. Of course, the 2012 is very, very young,
so it is possible all the elements will come together over time. Either way,
the 2012 looks like a slightly firmer version of the 2007 at this stage. This
is going to be a fascinating vintage to follow over the next three decades,
give or take. (92-95)/Drinking
window: 2022-2042.

Further Reading:

<a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/articles/2011-napa-valley-cabernet-sauvignon-terroir-matters-nov-2013">2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: Terroir
Matters</a>&nbsp;(November 2013)

<a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/articles/wine-food-press-st-helena-june-2013">Five
Decades of Classic Napa Valley Cabernets at Press</a>&nbsp;(June 2013) <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/articles/wine-food-press-st-helena-apr-2011">Dinner at Press</a>&nbsp;(April 2011) -- Antonio Galloni

Editors
Note:

The wines in this article were
tasted over the last nine months in four different sessions: 

Winery visit – September 2013

Seminar at Pebble Beach Food &amp;
Wine – April 2014

Vinous office – May 2014

Tasting with proprietor Charles
Banks – June 2014

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