Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015
BY NEAL MARTIN |
“At the heart of this success are two forces of nature: the vines and Denis Durantou. The two are entwined.” – Pomerol by Neal Martin
The etymological root of Pomerol is poma, Latin for “seed.” Around 20 years ago, the seed of my passion for this appellation was planted as I stood by a roadside ditch in my cheap suit with my Japanese colleagues on an icy winter morning. I asked proprietor Denis Durantou what made L’Eglise-Clinet special. Without hesitating, he leapt into the ditch and scooped out a precious clump of clay, my answer oozing through his fingers. “Voilà la secret!” he exclaimed. A similar visceral response on the Left Bank was unimaginable. I instantly fell in love not only with L’Eglise-Clinet but with the entirety of Pomerol. In retrospect, that was the catalyst for an idea that later grew into my book, a copy of which lies spread-eagled on my desk right now.
I have written many articles on L’Eglise-Clinet over the years. They range from verticals focusing on different eras, to tastings through Durantou’s small but perfectly formed and perfectly priced portfolio, to insightful parcel-by-parcel tastings to understand the anatomy of L’Eglise-Clinet. The most memorable event occurred several years ago in the nearby village of Branne, where Durantou gathered a few friends and scribes to share a handful of remaining bottles from his grandfather’s cellar, including the fabled last Marie-Jeanne of 1929 Clos L’Eglise-Clinet. What a privilege to taste this piece of history! In fact, the highlight eventually turned out to be not the oldest bottle, but rather a magnum of 1955 L’Eglise-Clinet, which provided one of my most awe-inspiring vinous experiences to date.
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Pomerol runs through the veins of proprietor Denis Durantou, who single-handedly has made L’Eglise-Clinet one of the most sought-after wines in Bordeaux. This article examines how recent vintages are evolving, as well as rare gems back to the Twenties.
