The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015
BY NEAL MARTIN |
Terroir. Terroir. Terroir.
Terroir. Terroir. Terroir…
That’s all you hear. It’s all about terroir.
Another statement in vogue amongst winemaker brethren is: “I’m not a winemaker.”
My heart always sinks a little when I hear this.
Take the most impeccable terroir imaginable. Without man turning fruit into wine, all it will bestow is bird food and rotting grapes. Imploring that you are not a winemaker when your job is to make wine is surely an abdication of responsibility, an abnegation of a noble vocation since time immemorial. Based on my own experience, I would rather drink a wine made by a passionate, talented, quality-focused winemaker dealing with average terroir than an indifferent, lackadaisical winemaker from outstanding terroir. Which brings me to Rauzan-Ségla – a case example of the critical importance of the winemaker.
Rauzan-Ségla is blessed with some of the finest terroir in Bordeaux. This is a constant; it does not and will not change, and you’ll learn all about it in this article. However, from 1661 to the present day, the story of Rauzan-Ségla has been determined by the dedication and skill of the people who call the shots. Here we will meet some of those people: Pierre de Rauzan, Jean de Rauzan, Anne-Marie de Briet, Catherine Jacquette Clémentine, Eugène Durand-Dassier, John Kolasa and Nicolas Audebert. Through the ages, they have one goal in common: To create the best wine possible. But we will also meet others with different priorities who ran roughshod over this prime terroir, the consequences tangible in the wines.
For some reason there is always a cloudless blue sky whenever I visit Rauzan-Ségla.
This is a château retrospective that I have been itching to do for many years. Rauzan-Ségla was one of my ports of call on my first trip to Bordeaux, and I have visited countless times. I conducted one vertical tasting in Paris several years ago, but upon joining Vinous, I resolved to undertake another retrospective and author a comprehensive article that not only appraises multiple vintages, but tries to get under the skin of this important Grand Cru Classé.
Early History (1661-1899)
Rauzan-Ségla’s genesis as part of the Gassies estate played a crucial role in the evolution of viticulture in the Médoc. I have delved deep into its history, gleaning details from the monograph given to me by former estate manager John Kolasa many years ago, entitled “Château Rauzan-Ségla: La naissance d’un grand cru classé.” Like many similar texts, it burgeons with minutiae, though it was clearly edited during a coffee break, since it’s a jumble of information. Translating the complex French prose and reordering the meandering chronology took many hours. Hopefully it was worth it in the end.
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A unique vertical of Rauzan-Ségla that spanned more than a century was the catalyst for this in-depth château profile, which charts the course of the Margaux Second Growth from its origins under Pierre de Rauzan to the present day under Nicolas Audebert. Everything you ever wanted to know about Rauzan-Ségla should be here.
