Ironing Out The Kinks: Jim Barry The Armagh 1985-2021
BY ANGUS HUGHSON |
It would be difficult to imagine two more different places: The town of Armagh, sitting amongst green fields in Northern Ireland—a centerpiece for culture and religion—and the isolated rolling, occasionally rugged, hillsides of outback South Australia and the Clare Valley. Yet for early Irish settlers almost 200 years ago, a small untamed corner of Clare Valley, which they christened “Armagh,” offered hope for a better life. Vines followed soon after. The Armagh name has proven to be prophetic, as it is now home to one of Australia’s premier vineyards.
Winter hibernation in The Armagh vineyard.
Today, 5,100 hectares are planted in the Clare Valley, a diverse region with elevations ranging from 200 to 600 meters. Located close to an hour’s drive north of the Barossa and half its size, Clare Valley is defined by seasons that take a distinctly more continental turn, with cooler nights and warmer days than in its more famous southerly neighbor.
Clare Valley is the country’s red center and where ocean influences collide. Cool maritime breezes rip up through gullies and valleys from the south, tempering the prevailing heat mass from central Australia that can see temperatures drop from 40 degrees to single figures in a day during the growing season. This dramatic climatic tension, combined with a diversity of sites, allows Clare Valley to grow both fine and detailed Riesling in some areas and deeply flavored Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon in others. But, this is not the openly expressive typical South Australian Shiraz style—the best are composed, intense and brooding wines with a quiet confidence and distinctive slaty/graphite tones.
The tale of Jim Barry’s Armagh Shiraz has mirrored the national wine story over the last forty years. Terroirs with the highest aspirations from the outset have taken time to hit their straps, with occasional missteps along the way. Thanks to greater precision in the vineyard and winery, the last ten years have seen this Clare Valley Shiraz slip into a neat groove with a unique mix of sheer power and finesse. This was showcased in this complete vertical tasting stretching back to the inaugural 1985 vintage.
