White-on-White: Porseleinberg 2010-2020
BY NEAL MARTIN |
Fans of Rob Reiner’s spoof documentary This Is Spinal Tap will recall the scene when manager Ian Faith bounds into rehearsals carrying a cardboard box filled with copies of Spinal Tap’s forthcoming album. “Here it is, lads. Gather round,” he beckons. Having originally anticipated a cover design as risqué as its title, band members inspect the record company-sanctioned textless plain black cover. Bassist Derek Smalls appreciates that he can see his reflection, and members agree that it represents mourning and death, at least until lead singer David St. Hubbins remarks that it's rubbish. Now, I’m not for one moment suggesting that a similar conversation ensued when winemaker Callie Louw first set eyes upon the white-on-white label of Porseleinberg. But I imagine his initial reaction was one of…bemusement.
Though Porseleinberg is the pet project of Boekenhoutskloof, from day one, it has operated as a separate entity under the direction of Callie Louw, to the extent that many consumers are unaware that it is part of Franschhoek’s leading estate and the brainchild of shareholder, Marc Kent. Since I began covering South Africa, Porseleinberg has represented the apex of the country’s Syrah, inspired by classic Northern Rhônes such as Clape and Jamet.
Winemaker Callie Louw
Louw made a rare visit to London, coincidentally at exactly the same time as the Rugby World Cup was about to kick off, to host a vertical of every release since the maiden 2010. As expected, the room was packed, many attendees having heard of, yet never met, the elusive winemaker. Louw does not relish the limelight. He begins the tasting, forewarning that he is a poor public speaker, then embarks upon one of the most entertaining and informative tutorials in recent months. His irreverent, almost self-mocking manner, not uncommon within the Cape’s winemaking community, belies an erudite and thoughtful winemaker. A bit like Adi Badenhorst, Louw’s slightly grizzled features and carefree, slacker-like demeanor deflect from what is an astute mind. He makes a refreshing break from Gallic euphemisms and flowery language.
Louw began his career at Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards, working alongside Chris and Andrea Mullineux. It was a chance meeting in London with Marc Kent that introduced him to Boekenhoutskloof, which led to an invitation to join as winemaker a couple of years later. He is a straight talker who freely admits errors made in the past, for example, using dusted sulfur in 2014 to little effect and consigning one parcel to an early demise. “There is a block where there is no topsoil. It is pure blue schist, a soil called Mispah and normally not suited for planting,” Louw later clarified by e-mail. “The Syrah vines did not make it [well, all but four vines apparently]. But the Grenache loves it. After learning this lesson, I planted Grenache on all the super marginal sites.”
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Among South Africa’s clutch of world-class Syrah, Porseleinberg is regarded as the best. So what better than a vertical of every vintage to date tutored by winemaker Callie Louw?
