Ornellaia &amp; Masseto: 1995-2010 From Magnum BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JANUARY 19, 2017David Bouley’s Test
Kitchen was the setting for this remarkable retrospective featuring Ornellaia
and Masseto across eight iconic vintages. All of the wines were served from
magnum for what turned out to be a truly unforgettable evening. Winemaker
Axel Heinz was on hand to share his insights over the course of dinner.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1484863660962-Room+-+Copy.jpg">The striking dining
room at the Test KitchenAt Vinous, we aim to host events that deliver educational
value, are of historic significance, and that, of course, are also fun. We
don’t do many events, but we have hosted some pretty special evenings over the
years, including complete verticals of Solaia and Masseto along with the
Monfortino magnum vertical we put on in London a few years ago. Some years had
passed since our last Masseto vertical, so I thought it might be time to
revisit some of the wines.Ornellaia and Masseto are both produced at Tenuta
dell’Ornellaia in Tuscany’s Maremma. For more on the estate’s history, readers
might like to revisit <a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/ornellaia-a-major-retrospective-1985-2006-dec-2009">this
article</a> from a few years back. Ornellaia is a Bordeaux-inspired Cabernet
Sauvignon-based blend, while Masseto is 100% Merlot made from a few select
blocks on the large, sprawling property. In recent years, the estate has worked
towards the goal of establishing Ornellaia and Masseto as two separate
wineries. For that reason, Ornellaia and Masseto are very rarely shown
together.So, that is exactly what I thought would be interesting: a
side-by-side comparison of Ornellaia and Masseto across a number of reference-point
vintages. And to make the evening more special, why not taste the wines out of
magnum? In order to ensure perfect provenance, all of the wines were purchased
directly from the estate. Most of the Ornellaias came from the winery’s&nbsp;Archivio Storico&nbsp;program.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1443665834674-OrnellaiaandCover.jpg">Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, BolgheriFrom the moment we started opening the bottles and checking
for cork taint, I knew it was going to be an incredible evening. Every single
bottle was superb. Many were utterly profound. With one exception, the 2001
Masseto, I chose not to decant the wines because I wanted guests to taste the
extraordinary purity of fruit the wines showed when they were just opened. All
the bottles were stored standing to allow for a natural decantation of
sediment, but some bottles had accumulated quite a bit of sediment on their
shoulders, so the sommeliers pre-poured every glass before service.And now, I must share some not so good news. I first started
tasting and drinking the Tenuta dell’Ornellaia wines in the early 1990s. Over
the years, I have had a chance to taste virtually all of the wines that have
been made at the estate. But nothing could have prepared me for the wines I
tasted on this evening. With perhaps one exception, the wines were
stratospherically beautiful.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1484864666337-Ornellaia+highlights.JPG"> The difference between the same wines in bottle and magnum
is truly remarkable. That wines age more slowly in magnum than in bottle is
well known. What I did not expect was how much more finessed the wines from
magnum were. There are a lot of adjectives that come to mind in describing
wines from Maremma. Finesse is rarely one of them. And yet that is the word I
kept coming back to as I tasted through the bottles before the event,
especially with Masseto. Based on this tasting, I am not sure I will ever be
able to buy either Ornellaia or Masseto in a standard 750ml bottle. My advice to
Vinous readers is simple: if you have an opportunity to buy the wines in magnum
don’t miss it.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1484868473351-CorksAlt+-+Copy.jpeg"> After a few last-minute preparations, the room was set. One
of the things I like most about the Test Kitchen is the open, loft-like space
that allows guests to move freely between the foyer, kitchen and dining room
areas. On this night, for whatever reason, guests bypassed both the foyer and
kitchen and moved straight into the dining room. Perhaps they had a sixth sense
as to what awaited. There was a level of energy and anticipation in the room
that was palpable.&nbsp;






























































David Bouley and his team prepared a fabulous meal to go
with the wines. Service was impeccable. We could not have asked for more. A
Champagne Bar with a selection of hors-d’oeuvres
got things started, but guests were eager to taste the wines, so we sat down
quickly.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1484868552985-mushrooms2.jpeg"> Flight 1: 2010
Ornellaia, 2010 Masseto, 2007 Ornellaia, 2007 Masseto 

Forager’s Treasure of Wild Mushrooms; Sweet Garlic, Special SpicesHow many dinners anywhere start with a wine on a level with
the 2010 Ornellaia? I imagine not
many. But that’s exactly the way we get going. Super-expressive aromatics soar
out of the glass as the 2010 shows off its personality. Sweet herbs, tobacco,
licorice, mocha and tar wrap around a core of intense dark fruit. Racy,
powerful and majestic, the 2010 is a total stunner.&nbsp;A wine of extraordinary purity, silkiness and finesse, the 2010 Masseto has it all. The flavors
are bright, precise and exceptionally pure, but it is the wine’s total balance
that is utterly compelling. What more can I ask from a wine? Absolutely
nothing. There is often something magical about cooler, later-ripening vintages
at the estate. The interplay of more moderate conditions with the inherent
power of these sites can yield wines of profound beauty and brilliance. The
2010 is all that, and more. <img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1484865702013-flight1.JPG"> 

The 2007 Ornellaia
is a wine of texture above all else. What the 2007 lacks in aromatic intensity
it more than makes up for with its sumptuous, generous personality. Silky and
inviting, with soft contours and seemingly endless layers of dark red-fleshed
fruit, the 2007 is absolutely delicious today.&nbsp;Rich, explosive and powerful in the glass, the 2007 Masseto dazzles from the very
first taste. Layers of dark fruit, mocha, chocolate, black cherry and spice
build into the huge finish. This is a tremendous showing from the 2007.

Flight 2: 2006
Ornellaia, 2006 Masseto, 2004 Ornellaia, 2004 Masseto

Organic Millbrook Venison; Wild Pawpaw Fruit

The second flight is a comparison of power versus finesse. A
towering, vivid wine, the 2006 Ornellaia
bristles with power, depth and intensity. Broad swaths of tannin support the
vibrant, youthful flavors in a captivating, breathtaking wine of the highest
level. From magnum, the 2006 is an infant. Those lucky enough to own it are in
for a treat.&nbsp;I still remember where I was the first time I tasted the 2006 Masseto. Since then, I have tasted
the 2006 several times. It has never been anything less than utterly profound.
That is once again the case on this night. Readers who are cellaring the 2006
Masseto in magnum will want to wait at least a few years for it to be at its
very best. Still, it is magnificent tonight.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1484864015761-2004+2006.JPG"> 

I have always adored the 2004 vintage in Tuscany. The long,
moderate growing season produced wines of exceptional finesse.&nbsp;Silky, perfumed and polished, the 2004 Ornellaia is a fabulous example of the vintage. From magnum,
the 2004 is exceptionally youthful and super-finessed, with expressive, floral
aromatics and layers of finely-knit fruit. What else can I say? The 2004 is
tremendous.&nbsp;As hard as it may seem to believe, the 2004 Masseto is even more expressive. It, too, is incredibly silky,
bright and polished, with captivating aromatics, nuanced red cherry fruit and
stunning overall balance. The mid-weight, gracious style bears some resemblance
to the 2010. From magnum, the 2004 is a showstopper.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1484860188923-Axel+copy.JPG"> Winemaker Axel Heinz shares his insightsFlight 3; 2001
Ornellaia, 2001 Masseto, 1998 Ornellaia, 1998 Masseto 

Organic Colorado Lamb; Organic Snow Peas, Sweet Peas, Fava Beans, Okra, Organic Rosemary-Perfumed Quinoa&nbsp;If there is one vintage I enjoy less than the others in this
tasting, it is 2001. Both wines are quite ripe and a touch alcoholic as well.
It is not a style I am especially fond of personally. When they were first
released, the 2001s garnered considerable acclaim. Since then, though, the
estate’s wines have entered another level of quality.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1484868967865-1Saucing+-+Copy.JPG"> 

The 2001 Ornellaia
is deep, unctuous and very ripe, with plenty of dark stone fruit, mocha,
chocolate, licorice, black cherry and plum flavors. Exotic, rich and decidedly
flamboyant, the 2001 is at its peak, where it is likely to remain for a number
of years.&nbsp;Another huge wine, 2001
Masseto is intense, super-ripe and unctuous. Dense, voluptuous and dark, the 2001 is a heady wine
built on serious concentration. This is an especially ripe, opulent vintage for
Masseto. Relative to prior tastings, the 2001 did not show as well as it has in
the past.

One of the highlights of the evening, the 1998 Ornellaia is not the most profound
wine on the table, but it is among the most pleasing because it is in such a
perfect place for current drinking. The aromatics are super-refined, but
everything about the 1998 speaks to total polish. Hints of cedar, tobacco,
licorice, mocha and savory herbs give the wine its nuanced personality. From
magnum, the 1998 has another decade of fine drinking ahead of it.&nbsp;Exotic, ripe and voluptuous, the 1998 Masseto is another wine that is in the zone today. The 1998 is
an especially flamboyant Masseto. There is no shortage of richness in the
cherry jam, mocha, plum and spice flavors. This is another gorgeous wine to
drink now and over the next decade.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1484868809515-1Lamb+-+Copy.JPG"> 

Flight 4: 1997
Ornellaia, 1997 Masseto, 1995 Ornellaia, 1995 Masseto

Chef’s Selection of Mature Artisanal French Cheeses

The 1997 Ornellaia
is another wine that is in the zone today. Soft, sensual and inviting, the 1997
has aged gracefully and also maintained a good deal of freshness as well. Wild
flowers, spice, mint and red stone fruit continue to open up as this sumptuous wine fleshes out in the
glass.&nbsp;Soft contours and layers of plush fruit give the 1997 Masseto much of its personality
and feel.&nbsp; A rush of juicy red cherry and
pomegranate appear first, followed by more subtle notes that develop over time.
At nearly twenty years of age, the 1997 is peaking, yet it also has enough
depth to drink well for another decade or more.&nbsp;

One of the biggest surprises of the night, the 1995 Ornellaia is superb. The 1995 has
long been one of my favorite vintages of Ornellaia. It is also a wine I have
followed since the beginning. Over the last few years, though, the wine has
begun to fray and show its age. The 1995 was made during an earlier era, before
Ornellaia introduced Le Serre Nuove, the estate’s second wine, and increased
the selection for the flagship wine. On this evening, from magnum, the 1995 is
superb. Lifted, gracious and remarkably fresh, the 1995 is utterly sublime.&nbsp;Time has also been kind to the 1995 Masseto. Still quite rich, deep and pliant, the 1995 offers up
a compelling fabric of sweet dark cherry, plum, licorice and mocha. Now gently
softened by the slow passage of the years, the 1995 is mature but also has
enough depth to drink well for another decade or so.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1484864519974-masseto.JPG"> <a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/wines?sort%5Bdirection%5D=desc&amp;sort%5Bname%5D=vintage&amp;wf_dirty=false&amp;wf_export_fields=&amp;wf_export_format=&amp;wf_id=&amp;wf_match=all&amp;wf_model=Wine&amp;wf_name=&amp;wf_order=vintage&amp;wf_order_type=desc&amp;wf_page=1&amp;wf_per_page=25&amp;wf_submitted=true&amp;wf_type=WillFilter%3A%3AFilter&amp;wine_filter%5Barticle_id%5D=1562">See All the Wines from Youngest to Oldest</a> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/a-tuscan-icon-petrolo-galatrona-1998-2012-sep-2016">A Tuscan Icon – Petrolo Galatrona: 1998-2012</a>, Ian D'Agata, September 2016 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/vinous-event-soldera-vertical-in-london-oct-2016">Soldera Vertical in London</a>, Antonio Galloni, October 2016 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/montevertine-le-pergole-torte-1980-2012-jan-2016">Montevertine: Le Pergole Torte 1980-2012</a>, Antonio Galloni, January 2016 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/giacomo-conterno-barolo-riserva-monfortino-1970-2006-magnum-may-2014">Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006 from Magnum</a>, Antonio Galloni, May 2014 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/antinori-solaia-a-complete-retrospective-1978-2010-dec-2013">Antinori Solaia – A Complete Retrospective 1978-2010</a>, Antonio Galloni, December 2013 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/tenuta-dell-ornellaia-masseto-a-complete-retrospective-1986-2008-sep-2011">Tenuta dell’Ornellaia: Masseto – A Complete Retrospective 1986-2008</a>, Antonio Galloni, April 2011 <a target="_blank" href="http://vinous.com/articles/ornellaia-a-major-retrospective-1985-2006-dec-2009">Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006</a>, Antonio Galloni, December 2009

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