Manni Nössing Sylvaner: 2008-2015

BY IAN D’AGATA | FEBRUARY 14, 2017

Manni Nössing is one of Italy’s most talented winemakers. In fact, all his wines are so good that it’s virtually impossible to pick the best of the lot, or even a favorite (although individual taste preferences will undoubtedly help guide that decision). Nössing’s most famous wine is his Kerner. In my view, the Müller-Thurgau Sass Rigais is just as good, while the Sylvaner his most underrated wine (sometimes I think by Nössing too). Au contraire: The Sylvaner deserves much better, as it’s absolutely gorgeous, age-worthy, and remarkably pure, easily ranking with the best Italy has to offer in white wine. In fact, as great as all his wines are, it’s Nössing’s Sylvaner that leaves me mouth-opened and speechless almost every vintage.

A view of the Valle Isarco from Nössing's estate

Exploring Alto Adige’s Valle Isarco

The Valle Isarco is a narrow alpine wind swept valley running diagonally from Bolzano towards the northeast; by the time you reach Bressanone, Austria is only about twenty miles away. Although mountain areas are usually associated with cold weather, it can get extremely hot in Alto Adige, especially during the dog days of summer. Even though the Valle Isarco doesn’t quite reach the high temperatures that Bolzano does (usually one of Italy’s three hottest cities in August and only about a forty-five minute car drive away from the Valle), global warming, which was a big help in getting grapes to ripen only ten years ago, is now becoming a big problem in the Valle too.

Nössing is the acting president of Eisackthal (Valle Isarco in German) Wein association which aims to spread the wine and food culture of the Valle Isarco. There are forty to fifty members including producers, restaurateurs, and the local tourism office, all working together to promote this beautiful part of Italy. And promote it they should, since the area and its wines are nothing short of breathtaking.

The Hoandlhof Estate